This week, Jonathan Gold reviews Trois Familia, Ludo Lefebvre, Jon Shook, and Vinny Dotolo's newest addition to the Troic Mec/Petit Trois family. Here are the best lines from the review:
A lesson in naming
"At one point the name "Trois Mex" was apparently considered. Discarding it was probably a good thing."
The Goldster throws shade at New York's Empellón
"It is easy enough to overthink the collision of Mexican and modernist French cuisines, the way that Alex Stupak seems to be doing at his Empellón restaurants in Manhattan, where the pistachio guacamole and farro with huitlacoche are never quite what you think they should be."
So punny, J.Gold!
"Did the beet tartare tostada result from a typo? And how did he avoid calling his white bean burrito spiked with brown butter and bits of preserved lemon a "buerre-ito"? Think of the missed branding opportunities!"
Trois Familia >>> Empellón
"Whatever you may have to say about Trois Familia, it is not overthought, at least not in that sense."
Cool design, dude
"If there is an aesthetic on display here, it is probably Dorm Room Disco, 1977."
Sooooo Silver Lake
"This is Silver Lake. This is the most Silver Lake restaurant imaginable, down to the mostly vegetarian menu, the chugging '70s funk on the stereo, and the possibility of running into the guitarist from Bad Religion or the star of that show you liked on AMC."
Trois Familia's chilaquiles ~ Taco Bell's A.M. Crunchwrap
"The chilaquiles [...] have nothing in particular to do with actual chilaquiles (fried tortillas sautéed in chile sauce) beyond the crunch and a certain chile heat. But if you look at the dish as an improved Taco Bell A.M. Crunchwrap, it starts to make a demented sort of sense."