This week, Besha Rodell reviews ERB (short for Everson Royce Bar), the neighborhood bar by Osteria Mozza vet Matt Molina and Silver Lake Wine's Randy Clement. Although friends of the LA Weekly critic asked that she not expose the Arts District gem, B-Rod exclaims, "friendship be damned; ERB deserves the hordes."
While Besha gives a nod to the fantastic cocktails and the burger, "a triumph of greasy American gratification while somehow remaining elegant," she describes the food as "fantastic if you just want great food to go with your cocktails and a little disappointing if you were hoping to see Molina flex his creative muscle."
While the critic admits to hoping for a larger by-the-glass wine list and that Molina would "showcase his own personality as a cook," she ultimately concludes that "this is, in fact, the bar you always wanted to go to."
ERB scores three stars.
The Elsewhere: Bill Esparza eats Garfuna cuisine from Saraba food truck and LA Weekly runs down six great beef tongue dishes in LA.