This week, Besha Rodell heads east to dig into the brewpub fare of Eagle Rock Public House. The LA Weekly critic appreciates the ambitious, modern cooking that challenges the notion of traditional food and beer pairings. Chef Jerry Su resists the conventions of gastropubs with dishes like hamachi crudo, beef churrones with Mexican hot chocolate, and smoked beef rib:
Very few chefs have taken the opportunity to cook for beer drinkers and pushed past the obvious choice of gourmet burgers and elevated bar food. Chef Su gets close to this with occasional dishes, such as his Korean-kissed beef ribs, which come on the bone over broken rice with pools of spicy sauce described on the menu as "pureed kimchi." This is food that's meant for beer, but still surprising and creative and sidestepping the clichés of the genre. [LAW]
All in all, Rodell lauds Public House's "pioneering spirit" and "abundance of talent," and ultimately awards the restaurant two stars.
The Elsewhere: Daren Dines thoroughly enjoys Alimento, Eating L.A. checks out the newly re-opened Idle Hour, and Food GPS thinks Saint Martha's Juniper Cured Salmon with Everything Churros is "everything."