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Jonathan Gold Really Digs the Spicy Fish at Fang’s Kitchen

The Szechuan restaurant's signature dish steals the spotlight.

Fang's Kitchen
Fang's Kitchen
Wonho Frank Lee

This week the Goldster explores a recent addition to the explosion of Szechuan restaurants in the SGV, Fang's Kitchen. While the unmasked LA Times critic seems to enjoy the fiery flavors of nearly every dish, it is the Bashu fish, "bloodied with a half-inch of vivid chile oil," that captures his attention:

But that Bashu fish - the fish is tender, just firm enough to lift to your mouth with a pair of chopsticks, and lightly coated with egg white. The fragrance of chiles, garlic and pickly spice is overwhelming. But the flavor is impossibly mild, a bit of tingling from the Sichuan pepper and a bit of heat from the red chiles, a lingering sweetness from what might be Chinese rice wine and just the slightest hint of seafood flavor. [LAT]


The Elsewhere: Darin Dines enjoys a strong meal at South Bay newcomer Love & Salt, E*Star LA has a fanciful meal of dancing noodle hot pot at Hai Di Lao, The Offalo lunches at Sushi Tsujita, and Midtown Lunch munches through the eponymous dishes at Flautas.