Jonathan Gold Muses on Venice’s Versatile Eatery Gjusta

This week, the LA Times critic checks out Venice's hippest hangout Gjusta, brought to you by the team behind Gjelina. The Goldster observers the newest trends in modern eateries, from fashion blog-approved employee attire to chair-less dining (unless you can score a comfy milk crate) to personal shopper-esque attendants behind the counter. Ultimately, the commotion is worth the excellent food, with Gold particularly enthusiastic about the smoked fish on bialy and porchetta sandwich:

So you smile, you pay, and you find a place to stand, maybe near the babies in car seats that seem to gather in a far corner on weekends, maybe at an unoccupied milk crate outside. And when the food comes, it is generally worth the fuss - maybe hot, sliced porchetta with melted Fontina, or a drippy portion of spicy merguez lamb sausage on one of those charred baguettes, a plate of dripping smoked brisket, or a Reuben with griddle-seared corned beef, house-cured sauerkraut, gooey cheese and Russian dressing on drippy, crunchy rye. [LAT]

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