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Jonathan Gold Gets Bowled Over by Pasadena's Lincoln

The Goldster discusses the upcoming trend of Things in a Bowl.


This week, Jonathan Gold heads to the Pasadena Altadena border to hit the Gjusta the eastside, Lincoln. The LA Times critic declares the newest culinary phenomenon in a post-avocado toast era to be "Things in a Bowl, a culinary invention that may depend on rice, pasta, whole grains or legumes but usually includes a poached egg of one sort or another and always, always comes with kale."

The Goldster tries "All the Things" to avoid "Fear of Missing Out," and particularly enjoys the croissants and tartines, but can't get away from the bowls:

The great Eastside destination for Things in a Bowl is probably Lincoln, a new Pasadena brunch restaurant up by the Altadena border, which can sometimes seem as if it has as many varieties of Things in a Bowl as Baskin-Robbins has of ice cream. There is the breakfast bowl, which has the beans, sausage, runny egg, toast and tomato of a proper English fry-up but with baby kale and a lot more herbs.

There is the farro bowl, which includes dabs of peppery romesco sauce and a handful of spiced chickpeas along with the grains and greens. There is a spicy shrimp bowl, a more lettuce-intensive breakfast salad, and a bowl of huevos rancheros that may be spicy and vaguely cheesy but otherwise has all the characteristics of a bowl. [LAT]


The Elsewhere: Midtown Lunch mixes and matches Korean snacks at Kitchen StoryThe Offalo chomps on pig ears and tails at Barlo Kitchen + Cocktails, and Refined Palate returns to Spago for A+ service and a beautiful meal.