This week, Jonathan Gold reviews Kris Tominaga and Jeff Weinstein's French rotisserie Cadet in Santa Monica. While the celeb-laden space has all the makings of a "chill but on-trend restaurant," The LA Times critic is rather unimpressed with the "gimmick" of the Korean ssam-like accouterments that come with the main courses:
It is a great idea for a restaurant too, until you start thinking about how the sweet and spicy sauces kind of mask the flavors of the meat and fish, like ketchup on a hot dog. If you lose track for a moment, it can be hard to tell whether you're eating wood-grilled pork collar or marinated flap steak with escargot. [LAT]
Ultimately, the Goldster concludes Cadet just doesn't have the magic of Tominaga's former stint at the pop-up Wolf in Sheep's Clothing or at Melrose's the Hart and the Hunter, with "the most Hart and the Hunter-like dish," the rabbit boulettes, being the standout offering at Cadet.
The Elsewhere: Betty Hallock gives the low down on Ostrich Farm in Echo Park, Darin Dines has unbelievable barbecue at the Aaron Franklin and Adam Perry Lang collaboration, and The Offalo enjoys an impressive spread at Szechuan Impression.