This week, Besha Rodell is refreshed by chef Kris Morningstar and business partner Stephane Bombet's restaurant Terrine. The LA Weekly critic appreciates the restaurant's straightforward concept that carries from the refined space to the exceptional French cookery "with just enough Golden State sensibilities to keep it feeling fresh." B-Rod lauds Morningstar's deft preparation of meaty dishes and notes extraordinary purity of intention:
This is a special talent of Morningstar's - creating dishes that get to the very spirit of an ingredient. It's never more apparent than with the garbure, a stew of duck confit and white beans, which expresses the very quintessence of duck, its deep brawny soul, its particular gamey perfume. It's an utterly enchanting dish, if you have a soul easily enchanted by the essence of fowl. [LAW]
It isn't just the food that's great, with due credit given to Terrine's exceptional service that comes by way of Bombet and sommelier François Renaud:
Nearly everyone I've brought to Terrine has declared it their new favorite restaurant, and many of them aren't sure why. It's the food, of course, but it's also the extra steps that have been taken to ensure you feel pampered: the champagne coupes, the warm welcome you receive upon arrival, the quietly expert service. [LAW]
Ultimately, Terrine scores three stars.