Jonathan Gold Finds an Elevated State of Being at Asanebo

This week, Jonathan Gold heads to Studio City to review the institution of elevated Japanese cuisine, Asanebo. Like its sister restaurant Shunji, Asanebo serves "superb sushi but seem[s] almost reluctant to do so." The true stars are the composed dishes that bring diners to an "elevated state of being:"

Some customers can't get enough of the grilled Alaskan king crab leg, served simply with a dash of peppery yuzu kosho paste from Japan. Others love the simmered Japanese conch, served back in its shell and kept at a low simmer by the blob of flaming Sterno positioned under its base. On my last visit, I was captivated by a steamed Hokkaido hairy crab whose sweetness (and outer-space appearance) were enhanced by the intricate knife work, which made it possible to get at every gram of the delicate flesh without losing a drop of the juice. If you are lucky, you will be served the kanimiso, the organs of the crab whipped into an airy, umami-rich mousse. [LAT]

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