This week, Jonathan Gold heads to Studio City to review the institution of elevated Japanese cuisine, Asanebo. Like its sister restaurant Shunji, Asanebo serves "superb sushi but seem[s] almost reluctant to do so." The true stars are the composed dishes that bring diners to an "elevated state of being:"
Some customers can't get enough of the grilled Alaskan king crab leg, served simply with a dash of peppery yuzu kosho paste from Japan. Others love the simmered Japanese conch, served back in its shell and kept at a low simmer by the blob of flaming Sterno positioned under its base. On my last visit, I was captivated by a steamed Hokkaido hairy crab whose sweetness (and outer-space appearance) were enhanced by the intricate knife work, which made it possible to get at every gram of the delicate flesh without losing a drop of the juice. If you are lucky, you will be served the kanimiso, the organs of the crab whipped into an airy, umami-rich mousse. [LAT]
The Elsewhere: Jo Stouggard runs down 15 classic LA hot dogs, The Offalo appreciates the convenience of Santa Monica's new Jinya Ramen Bar, and Midtown Lunch takes a look at the new lunch menu at Ramen Champ.