Patric Kuh Drops a Rare Four Star Review on Downtown's Redbird

This week, Patric Kuh pens a review of Neal Fraser's downtown gem in the deconsecrated Vibiana Cathedral, Redbird. Kuh raves about Fraser's California cooking that dials "back the preconceptions of fine dining:"

This urbane atmosphere suits Fraser. He is a chef who's seen the trends and is mature enough to borrow from all over the culinary time line without losing his own voice. When he goes molecular, for instance, it makes sense. Taking tiny shelled North Sea shrimp, he tucks them beneath crescents of uni, sprinkling the whole with a flurry of "snow," which is to say crème fraîche and wasabi frozen with liquid nitrogen. Custardy yet sharp, icy cold yet ephemeral, the topping emphasizes the ocean tang and simultaneously tempers it. Picturesque on a duck-egg-green Heath plate, the seared foie gras sits under a layer of cider jelly and cocoa nibs that slowly melt into a sherry vinegar gastrique that totes a puree of dried apricots. I found myself using the brioche toast point to capture every drop. [LAW]

Unlike Jonathan Gold's mostly positive and Besha Rodell's three star reviews, Kuh is wowed by the kitchen's exceptional range and strong pastry program, awarding Redbird four stars.

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