This week, Jonathan Gold reviews the newest restaurant by the duo behind the now shuttered Hatfield's, Odys + Penelope. The "modern-primitive grill" boasts elevated approaches to churrascaria dishes with its dry-aged sirloin cap, tri-tip, and grilled skirt steak with Bearnaise. It's not all about meat though, as the Goldster also raves about the vegetables, and ultimately declares his love for Quinn and Karen Hatfield's newest venture:
I always admired Hatfield's. Odys + Penelope I actually love.
It's almost unprecedented, the sheer number of times I've tasted something here and been surprised not by unusual combinations or the rarity of ingredients but by the flawless demonstration of technique. I still have no idea how a seemingly raw dish of shaved Brussels sprouts with almonds and dried apricots managed to have the rounded flavor I tend to associate with deeply caramelized vegetables, or how the cherry tomatoes garnishing the grilled branzino manage to taste summer-ripe even in the first weeks of spring.
As did Besha Rodell, the LA Times critic ends his review admiring Karen Hatfield's exquisite desserts.
The Elsewhere: Lawrence Aldava for Brigham Yen gives the low down on B.S. Taqueria, Garrett Snyder eats stellar pizza and runs into Kanye West at Jon & Vinny's, James Gordon lists the best places for tacos in Pomona, and The Actor's Diet warms up with Tatsu Ramen.