This week, Jonathan Gold visits chef Ray Garcia's restaurant that is "less Mexican than it is Mexican American," B.S. Taqueria. The downtown hotspot has become known for its widely Instagrammed clam and lardo taco, and for good reason:
The tortillas, for one thing, are heavy and thick, pressed to order from specially imported GMO-free corn. There is a salsa made with herbs and minced lardo, Tuscan-style cured backfat from sustainably raised hogs, a handful of gently warmed clams and a drizzle of melted fat. There are wisps of fried garlic for crunch. And when you pick up the taco, trying to bend it into a classic U-shape without destroying the tortilla — the tortilla will crack anyway — what pours out is the pure, briny essence of the barnyard and the sea, a razor-sharp chile heat and just a trickle of citrus. All pork and yet all clam. [LAT]
But there is more to Garcia's bold cooking style that celebrates the fare of East LA. The LA Times critic recommends the "rice and beans" bolsa, cauliflower al pastor, pata verde, and the best "feather-light" churros he's ever tasted.