This week, Jonathan Gold turns around a quick review of Jon & Vinny's, which opened only two months ago on Fairfax. The latest project by the Animal and Trois Mec duo Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo is a "neighborhood pizzeria the way that Spago in 1982 was a pizzeria" - the space is decidedly hip, reservations are hard to come by, and the pizza is, of course, exceptionally delicious:
The crust is neither pale like a California pie nor freckled like the Neapolitan model — it is charred and smoking, thin and almost too crisp to fold, almost destroyed by the intense wood heat. The menu lists both a margherita and a spare marinara, but they are outnumbered by baroque concoctions of mortadella and sharp provolone, pepperoni and caciocavallo cheese, or ham and pickled chiles with the tomato sauce that also makes its way onto the restaurant's fusilli alla vodka. One pizza boasts a thick layer of molten California crescenza cheese strewn with peppery mustard flowers. Another, called "L.A. Woman," features a spare layer of tomato sauce, cool blurts of burrata and a few leaves of basil. It may well become your second-favorite pizza in Los Angeles, top 10 for sure. [LAT]
Ultimately, the LA Times critic is down with Jon & Vinny's modern red-sauce vibes, and recommends the cornmeal-fried spring onions, "L.A. Woman" pizza, bucatini cacio e pepe, soft-serve swirl, and Santa Rosa plums with basil and mascarpone.