This week, Besha Rodell explores the new downtown boulangerie Pitchoun!. B. Rod compares the massive bakery and takeaway counter to Gjusta, but Pitchoun's "Disney-esque" approach to the French boulangerie "doesn't really fit in with the image we have of Los Angeles (or even Paris) in 2015."
The LA Weekly critic gives credit where it's due, and appreciates the earnest in owners Frédéric and Fabienne Souliès' attempt to bring a little bit of their home country to downtown LA. While she appreciates the authenticity of the crepes, sandwiches, salads, and tartines, everything from the décor to the service to the pastries seem to just miss the mark:
Pitchoun! does not bake the finest baguette in town — it's not quite crackly enough, its interior isn't as stretchy as it could be. It also offers an organic baguette, which has a prettier shape and costs a bit more and is better on the crackle front. So much here is just one step shy of being truly remarkable. [LAW]
The Elsewhere: Bill Esparza puts together a guide to the best tortas in LA by style, Angela Matano details where to eat in Big Sur, and TimeOut awards three stars to Maré.