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Jonathan Gold Muses On Grand Harbor's $10,000 Tasting Menu

The critic doesn't order the thing, but is pleased with the restaurant's more economical offerings.

Grand Harbor
Grand Harbor

This week, Jonathan Gold heads to Temple City to review Grand Harbor, a new Chinese restaurant that specializes in rather pricey seafood dishes. On the menu is a $9,388 tasting menu (at least it feeds 10), that exists as "a statement of purpose, an inference that a meal there might be worth that kind of money, as well as a hint that you may be out of your league."

Sadly, that tasting menu, along with quite a few other extravagant dishes such as sun-dried abalone and bird's nests, are out of the Times critic's budget, so the review hones in on the more approachable offerings:

Once I tried to order a bowl of geoduck, longnecked clam, cooked in congee, and the waiter was good enough to point out that the dish was made with a whole live animal, and that I was probably looking at a $150 bowl of porridge. Suddenly, the live lobster congee, on special at $10.50, started to look like a real bargain. It was delicious. And the steamed whole fish tends to be perfect, a just-gelled essence of itself, barely touched with soy and ginger. Even with a local thornyhead instead of the Australian beauty, you are living in a house of gold and silver. [LAT]

The Goldster also recommends the baked pork bao with abalone sauce and fried chicken knees with spicy salt.

Grand Harbor Restaurant

5733 Rosemead Blvd, Temple City, CA (626) 280-2998