Lucky Peach is dedicating an entire issue to eating in Los Angeles, and editor Peter Meehan does a lengthy overture today on why the city is the best place to eat in America right now. It’s a long tour through town, starting on the Westside at places like Gjusta and Destroyer, but snakes through everything from chef-oriented concepts to ethnic enclaves like Koreatown, Thai Town, East LA, and San Gabriel Valley. Here are some choice clips from the article:
It was one of those meals during which you take pictures of everything because you can’t not, and when you scroll through the photos the next morning, you are even more impressed with it
I hate myself for how much I love Trois Familia
The Prince, which was clearly a tony red-velvet steakhouse at some point until it was taken over by Korean owners, who have maintained the interior like museum curators while replacing its bill of fare with sticky, sweet fried wings and cubes of stinky pickled daikon
The Santa Rita Jalisco taco truck, where he [Jonathan Gold] and I did our best not to choke on the tiny bones in the deep-fried-chicken-neck tacos we ate, surrounded by families with children doing their homework.
The dan dan noodles, the dumplings in red oil, all the things I’d eaten a million times before: suddenly I was seeing them in neon, fluorescent color when they had once been in black and white.
As with any publication who covers L.A. from an outside perspective, it’s great to see the City of Angels continue to get its due. It seems like Lucky Peach has done a comprehensive job of tackling the known quantities, and the unknown ones that stretch out to the far reaches of town. The issue is out now.