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LA Weekly Drops Three Stars on Newly Relocated Salt's Cure

Besha Rodell finds the Hollywood restaurant to be as meaty as ever.

Salt's Cure, Hollywood
Salt's Cure, Hollywood
Wonho Frank Lee

This week, Besha Rodell visits the newly relocated Salt's Cure, chefs Chris Phelps and Zak Walters' meat-centric concept that moved east from a transitory space in West Hollywood to a proper restaurant in Hollywood. Although the Weekly critic takes a moment "to be a little sad at the passing of the old model" with its "semipermanent feel of the room, the intimacy of sitting right at the edge of the kitchen ­—€” it had an audacity and purity of personality that I found refreshing," she says that ultimately, "not much has changed about the soul of this restaurant." That is to say, the meaty offerings are as good as ever:

Along with prime cuts of beef, which are big and tangy and fantastic, you might find something called "pork secret," a small, seared cut of pork so tender you'll be happy to eat it medium rare. Or a lamb loin chop, a cross-section of muscles that's bouncy and bloody and musky and returns you to your base carnivorous state, tearing at the meat like a wolf.

The regular menu tends to focus on the byproducts of the butchery, as well as seafood and salads. A fat, white sausage with a lovely, smooth consistency comes with poached apples and sauerkraut, an example of the way Phelps and Walters are able to translate classic cooking, in this case German sausage-making. They channel the country cooking of France with pork pâté over a slice of crisp apple on hearty wheat toast, and there are hints of Spain in the wide dish of clams with hunks of nubbly lamb sausage. A generous slice of grilled bread at the bottom of the bowl soaks up the meaty/oceanic juices. [LAW]

Of course, B. Rod also gives a nod to the restaurant's popular oatmeal griddle cakes, and awards Salt's Cure three stars.


The Elsewhere: Darin Dines has a standout meal at Simbal, Gastronomy Blog does brunch at Taco Maria, and Bill Esparza heralds the guisados at Zamora Bros.