Here’s a bit of a head-scratcher: Besha Rodell of the LA Weekly says that Osso, the Arts District corner stop from a few of New York expats, is perhaps among the best restaurants you aren’t routinely eating at. She also says that, despite the inventive fare and ultra-kind service, just about nobody is dining at Osso these days, and that’s cause for concern.
Thankfully this gleeful three star review should help things along. Rodell says:
There's a jumble of just-tender-enough marinated squid mingled with slivers of fennel, red onion and pops of fresh, juicy citrus, the blood orange in particular making its darkly sweet presence known. A bowl of sugar snap peas and pea shoots, peppered with small nubs of almonds and bacon, has a milky dill and kefir dressing that mimics ranch but is vastly more elegant.
Pastas are uncomplicated but still somehow surprising, like the delicate tagliatelle noodles tossed with walnuts, sharp cheese and a bracing amount of preserved lemon. The corned oxtail dish with spaetzle, cabbage and rye crumbs is one of the finest examples of German comfort food in town.
In the end, Rodell implores more folks to come out and see what Nick Montgomery, Akira Akuto and Ami Lourie are up to, even if the place itself isn’t quite sure. The critic vacillates between calling Osso a cocktail bar, full-fledged restaurant, performance space, or small plates Downtown destination. Ultimately, she says it’s just damn good, and dishes out three stars.
The elsewhere: The SGV Tribune talks about Croatian food at Cafe LuMar, the OC Register chimes in on Top Chef contestant Amar Santana’s Vaca, and Ventura Boulevard Magazine takes a look at newcomer The Sherman.