You may be vaguely familiar with David Wilcox — he spent some formative time at Gjelina in Venice before landing in San Francisco for stints at Mill Valley Beerworks and Amoura Kitchen — but you’ll be seeing a lot more of him in the coming weeks as the man begins a short- term residency at Hatchet Hall, cooking a limited number of nightly burgers for the back bar.
The so-called Old Man Bar is a woody look into the hunting lodge of an affluent man from the 1940’s, complete with antlers hanging over the fireplace. Lightly used except on weekends, Wilcox will take over the lumberjack-friendly bar for a burger pop-up called, efficiently enough, Burgers and Records. The second half of the name refers to the Old Man Bar’s actual record player, but the focus for the month of March will be on Wilcox’s wood-grilled burgers, which run $18 and come topped with bacon and smoked oysters.
There will only be 23 burgers made on any given Sunday or Monday night this month, and they won’t start coming out of the kitchen until 10 p.m. sharp. The timing and the number of burgers seems a loose nod to Atlanta’s famous Holeman & Finch burger deal, though the finished product will be very different. Wilcox plans to run the deal every Sunday and Monday through March and then figure out his next move from there, but now that he’s fully relocated to Los Angeles, pop-ups like these may well be a testing ground for something bigger and more personal down the line.
Let’s just hope this pop-up run goes better than his 2014 stint at The Mill, the noted SF toast spot, where Wilcox was labeled a hero after putting out a kitchen fire that threatened to engulf the restaurant.