This week, Jonathan Gold heads down to Torrance for the best tonkatsu in town at Kagura. Nestled in the "district that is [the most] comfortably Japanese," the izakaya is the sort of place that is "at least as focused on drinking as it is on food [...] and as focused on enabling long conversations as it is on alcohol."
Sure, there's a delicious grilled black cod and a nice cheese-stuffed potato croquette, but you're really here for the set dinners that center around tonkatsu, or fried pork:
The well-marbled loin bursts with luscious fat when you bite into it; the filet is leaner and firmer, perhaps less interesting. Kagura's specialty is the style known as mille-feuille — thinly sliced pork folded into a cutlet before it is breaded and fried, a soft, supremely juicy portion of meat. If you are that kind of person, you can even get your mille-feuille tonkatsu enhanced with oozing rivulets of cheese. [LAT]
The Goldster concludes his hearty meal with the sweet version of tonkatsu —slices of banana that are fried like their savory counterpart and served with chocolate sauce and ice cream.