This week, Garrett Snyder takes a look at Officine Brera, the "latest addition to downtown's growing roster of industrial locations repurposed as restaurants." The Factory Kitchen duo Matteo Ferdinandi and chef Angelo Auriana's sophomore effort, the restaurant offers hearty Northern Italian fare that "strips away the West Coast sensibility in favor of a much more stick-to-the-ribs style of Italian food."
Like the recent Jonathan Gold review, G. Sny doles out high praise for Officine Brera's risotto:
Risotto may be a staple of fancy dining rooms everywhere, but few chefs can actually master it. The risotto at Officine Brera, Matteo Ferdinandi and chef Angelo Auriana's new Northern Italian restaurant, is different. It's the risotto that other risottos have posters of above their beds. Call it the Steph Curry of risotto. [LAW]
The temporary Weekly critic also admires the restaurant's pastas that are "somehow engineered to squeeze maximum dopamine out of your pleasure receptors." Unfortunately, the meat dishes don't fare so well:
The braised beef shoulder with mashed potatoes and roasted carrots is tender but, aside from the salty punch of anchovy oil, there isn't much to elevate it from a standard pot roast. A whole grilled quail rubbed with sage was more disappointing: dry in the middle and perched atop a mound of polenta in desperate need of seasoning. [LAW]
Offiine Brera earns two stars out of five.