This week, Jonathan Gold talks bulgogi, the dish that "non-Koreans were routinely served [in Korean restaurants] even when they happened to be sitting in a restaurant devoted to seafood or goat" at Gwang Yang in Koreatown. The restaurant isn't cheap, with prices that are "not much less than what you might expect to pay in a splashy American steakhouse." But with those prices come some pretty exceptional marinated meat:
Then the bulgogi arrives and you can think of nothing but meat, big sheets frosted with chopped garlic that crumple and soften on the grill, scented with smoke and - pear? Sesame? The waiter swears he doesn't know! - and dissolving almost like ice cream on your tongue. This is the Gangnam-style bulgogi, barely marinated, and not the restaurant's L.A.-style, which is the usual sugary thing. You may want another order of the Gangnam-style for dessert. [LAT]
The Goldster also recommends yukhoe, Korean steak tartare that he calls one of the best in town; marinated short ribs; and skirt steak.