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Jonathan Gold Finds Meaty Heaven at Korean Barbecue Gwang Yang

Bring on the meat sweats

Gwang Yang
Gwang Yang
Gwang Yang

This week, Jonathan Gold talks bulgogi, the dish that "non-Koreans were routinely served [in Korean restaurants] even when they happened to be sitting in a restaurant devoted to seafood or goat" at Gwang Yang in Koreatown. The restaurant isn't cheap, with prices that are "not much less than what you might expect to pay in a splashy American steakhouse." But with those prices come some pretty exceptional marinated meat:

Then the bulgogi arrives and you can think of nothing but meat, big sheets frosted with chopped garlic that crumple and soften on the grill, scented with smoke and -€” pear? Sesame? The waiter swears he doesn't know! -€” and dissolving almost like ice cream on your tongue. This is the Gangnam-style bulgogi, barely marinated, and not the restaurant's L.A.-style, which is the usual sugary thing. You may want another order of the Gangnam-style for dessert. [LAT]

The Goldster also recommends yukhoe, Korean steak tartare that he calls one of the best in town; marinated short ribs; and skirt steak.

Gwang Yang BBQ

3435 Wilshire Boulevard, , CA 90010 (213) 385-5600 Visit Website

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