This week, LA Weekly's Garret Snyder tucks into a review of The Bellwether, chef Ted Hopson and beverage director Ann-Marie Verdi's Studio City highlight. Per the exploration, the former Father's Office chef Hopson "weave[s] solid and inventive cooking techniques into even the most commonplace dishes," like the bistro's three-day french fries and exceptional chicken:
I was captivated by Hopson's colorful play on Waldorf salad: A mound of the crunchy-creamy picnic staple was hidden under a cold-poached slab of chicken breast, and a bath of vibrant green apple and fennel consommé was poured over the top. Such balanced elegance is something you expect at a restaurant at twice this price point. [LAW]
Ultimately, The Bellwether comes out looking like a strong addition to the neighborhood, and scores three glowing stars, with Snyder strongly adding:
It's not always useful to read too much into the meaning of a restaurant's name, but in the case of "bellwether" — "one that leads or indicates trends" — the definition seems an apt description of what Hopson and Verdi have accomplished. The Bellwether is by no means a groundbreaking establishment, but it takes what we've come to expect from a neighborhood restaurant and adds another layer of polish. No hooks, no gimmicks, no conceits. If that's the next big trend, I'm all for it. [LAW]
Ultimately the review matches up pretty well to Jonathan Gold's earlier word on the matter, which at the time considered The Bellwether to be perfectly on trend.