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Welcome to another installment of Good News/Bad News. This time Eater stops by Salt's Cure, the neighborhood restaurant that recently relocated from West Hollywood to larger digs over on Highland. The restaurant by Chris Phelps and Zak Walters that centers on whole-animal butchery has received relatively positive reviews by Jonathan Gold and Besha Rodell. So what's the overall word?
It's all about that pork chop
"It is probably easier to find a great pork chop in Los Angeles than it has ever been, from the char siu pork chop at Jar to the fennel-crusted chop at Sotto, to the racket-size tomahawks at Chi Spacca. But the best pork chop in town is the one at Salt's Cure in its new Hollywood digs: a full pound of sustainably raised Marin Sun Farms pork from Northern California, lightly marinated, and cooked slowly, so that the thin rim of fat crisps while the juices concentrate in the meat and the pork tastes intensely, gloriously of itself. It's a pork chop, but it is also a tour de force." [LAT]
"Words can't describe...I am not a pork chop fan or a big pork eater until I had a chop at Salt's. I have to fight the urge to order one and ask the chef for his preference." [TripAdvisor]
"Although I scoffed at the thought of a $30+ pork chop I was immediately swayed at my first bite." [OpenTable]
And other off-cuts of meat
"Salt's Cure is a meaty place. But it is meaty in ways you may not expect, like the plate of chewy "pork ham confit" dominated by a tangle of pickled vegetables and rowdy herbs, or the gamy chunks of lamb sausage with the steamed clams, or the strips of porky bacon that are apt to show up almost anywhere." [LAT]
"Along with prime cuts of beef, which are big and tangy and fantastic, you might find something called "pork secret," a small, seared cut of pork so tender you'll be happy to eat it medium rare. Or a lamb loin chop, a cross-section of muscles that's bouncy and bloody and musky and returns you to your base carnivorous state, tearing at the meat like a wolf." [LAW]
No one's forgotten about those crazy oatmeal griddlecakes
"The buttery, crisp-edged pancakes at the center of a Salt's Cure brunch are uncommonly delicious — why not serve a short stack of them alongside the duck confit." [LAT]
"But those oatmeal griddle cakes are as good as ever, hearty yet light and crisped at the edges." [LAW]
"Sweet baby Jesus I don't know what kind of voodoo magic they did those pancakes...but it worked on me! The butter was some sort of sweeten goodness that melted delicately into the crooks and crannys of the pancakes...with a touch of syrup...forget about it." [TripAdvisor]
But the grapefruit pie is hit or miss
"But the gift of moderate satiation may leave you with room for a slice of the grapefruit pie, like a Key lime pie with a different tang and a lingering bittersweet hint of peel that finishes the rich meal like a kiss." [LAT]
"Even the grapefruit pie, one of the restaurant's longtime signature dishes, lacked the pithy grapefruit flavor that gave it its sweet/sour/bitter magic." [LAW]
"Grapefruit pie/tart [...] had zero trace of citrus or tartness (except for the strip of candied grapefruit zest served on top of the slice). The consistency of the pie was heavy and gluey and the flavor was purely bland." [OpenTable]