This week, Jonathan Gold reviews Winsome, the Echo Park restaurant that opened earlier this year on the bottom floor of an iconic William Perreira designed building. Before opening the full restaurant, chef Jeremy Strubel was known for "hipster brunch," but J. Gold describes those hipsters as having "gym-toned arms and $400 sneakers."
Those days have come and gone, and now the restaurant serves a breakfast and lunch that are described as "perhaps more impeccable than exciting, and designed to feed nearly every constituency."
The Times critic explains that dinner isn't much different, but the food sure is pretty:
If there is a single person who has eaten without pausing to Instagram the salad of briefly seared kampachi arranged with white blossoms, sweet chunks of nectarine and dehydrated-beet bullseyes, I have yet to meet her. This is all good-looking food: even the platter of spice-rubbed roast chicken, even the cat's cradle game of a rye pretzel sprawled over the bowl of cold fontina mousse, even the whole roasted branzino splayed on its plate like a salmon in a Tulalip feast. [LAT]
The Goldster concludes by describing the restaurant as "retro yet contemporary, American yet leaning slightly Eastern, and lashed with umami, the sixth taste, in unexpected ways," and recommends the pancake, potato rosti, duck egg toast, pork short ribs, whole roasted branzino, and banana rum tres leches.