This week, Jonathan Gold slurps noodles at the newest Los Angeles location of Tsujita in Glendale’s Americana at Brand. The Goldster calls Tsujita the “king of tonkotsu ramen in Los Angeles,” and notes that this caliber of ramen is a first for the area. Although the restaurant has simplified its menu since opening last November, the noodles, at least, are “immune from compromise.”
The Times critic describes the unbelievably fatty broth that “is pretty much what most line cooks spend their lives skimming from stockpots” with beautiful clarity:
But if intensity is what you crave, the tsukemen at the Tsujita are among the most hard-core noodles in town, thick and slithery, with the tensile strength of hand-thrown Lanzhou mian. And the broth, enhanced with a bit of seafood, has been reduced to a consistency just this side of syrup, as if the chef was consumed with the mission of squeezing as much pork as possible into a small bowl. You pluck out chopstickfuls of the tepid noodles, dunk them into the condensed broth, and suck them into your mouth in unbroken strands. [LAT]
J. Gold concludes the review recommending nothing but the deliciously gut-busting tonkotsu ramen and tsukemen.