This week Jonathan Gold drops a surprisingly early review of Kismet, Los Feliz’s new Middle Eastern-leaning restaurant by Madcapra’s Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson. The restaurant, which only just opened in January of this year, hardly had time to iron out its kinks (ultimately, the critic doesn’t seem to mention any) before getting the Goldster treatment.
The hip new eatery, full of customers “who all look like recent Wesleyan grads,” serves all-day fare that is “surpassingly light and vegetable-intensive, has the carefully layered flavors, the touches of heat, tartness and herbal intensity that we have grown to expect from the best new kitchens.” The Goldster seems to enjoy everything about the restaurant, starting with a wonderful spread for breakfast:
If you come for breakfast, Kramer and Hymanson will serve you shakshuka, yes, but also sesame-spiked granola, toasted brioche spread with halvah, or what they call “all the things,” which is to say the crunchy flatbread they get from Smorgasburg star Bub and Grandma’s, maybe some cucumbers with citrus, tiny potatoes with fennel, chunks of white cheese with kale, and containers of tahini and the thick, drained yogurt called labneh, which is especially good. [LAT]
And a similarly delicious lunch:
Lunch is pretty much the same — those lemony chicken pies, the bright-green herbed frittata called kuku, and grilled bread topped with spicy, herb-laced broccoli braised into soft submission. The rosewater lemonade is oddly refreshing. I could probably survive for a week eating nothing but the stewed lamb with stripes of burnt cabbage and a cushion of bland, soothing freekeh porridge, like a Sunday dish they never quite got around to inventing somewhere in northern Syria. [LAT]
But you’re really there for the chefs’ famed rabbit:
If you have a little money in your pockets, you might try the huge rabbit platter: rabbit stew, roasted legs scattered with herbs, and cubes of rabbit meat grilled like kebabs with caramelized squash. It feeds two — maybe as many as four, if you happen to be wearing skinny jeans. It was Kramer and Hymanson’s famous dish in their restaurant in Brooklyn, and I had been waiting more than a year to try it in Los Angeles. I suspect you will not be disappointed. [LAT]
In the end, Kismet shines albeit the early review, with Jonathan Gold also describing a particular fondness for the Tokyo turnips, kohlrabi with pumpkin seeds, jeweled crispy rice, and cranberry beans.