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This week, Jonathan Gold takes an early look at Longo Seafood, which opened back in October 2017 with a new slate of high end dim sum in Rosemead. The Goldster even quotes notable Chinese food writer David Chan, who said this was the most significant new dim sum restaurant to open in the SGV in a decade. Big words, indeed. Gold takes on the ritzy dim sum palace, decorated with a large chandelier that would feel appropriate in a Vegas restaurant.
The plates start coming, not a few at a time as in most dim sum restaurants but in waves: flaky barbecued pork pastries and sticky baked barbecued pork buns; gently seasoned steamed meatballs and gooey, spicy steamed chicken feet cooked with XO sauce; domes of puff pastry atop bowls of thin, hot almond milk spiked with gingko nuts; wrinkly, sauce-soaked tofu skin wrapped around minced seafood — sometimes all at once, until the table is buried underneath tiers of platters, metal steamers and smoking tureens of rice porridge.
Once the parade starts, Gold says the table really starts teeming with dishes. He’s especially enthusiastic about the pork rice roll:
The BBQ Supreme rice noodle roll, stuffed with crunchy bits of Longo’s roast pig, resembles nothing so much as a cross between dim sum and first-rate carnitas, and I cannot recommend the dish enough.
Not everything is great at Longo, especially with the more traditional orders like shrimp har gow, though the truffle shu mai is excellent:
The shrimp dumplings called har gow were almost bulletproof, and the wrappers of the expensive lobster dumplings have been almost impenetrable. The truffled shiu mai, on the other hand, were improbably good... [LAT]
The review has a long list of menu suggestions, including lobster noodles, fried chicken cartilage, and those roast pork rice noodles, but Jonathan Gold finds that it’s almost too easy to over-order. Thankfully the leftovers will be worth taking home.
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