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Jonathan Gold Tees Up For Big Early Review on David Chang’s Majordomo

The only major critic left in the city has been spotted several times

Majordomo, David Chang’s industrial restaurant, teems with Los Angeles diners.
The bar at Majordomo
Wonho Frank Lee

It seems like Jonathan Gold is keen to get out all of his flowery words on David Chang’s Majordomo soon, as multiple reports place the non-anonymous LA Times critic at the restaurant over the past several days.

A long thread about the restaurant over on Food Talk Central includes a shot of Gold at a poster’s nearby table, and others have hinted that he has been in the house (and catching staff eyeballs) at least one other time. Of course it’s possible that Gold is just out eating because he wants to, but given his prominence, his relationship with Chang — the two appeared side by side on an episode of this season’s Ugly Delicious on Netflix — and the stature of the restaurant itself, it would certainly seem an official review is forthcoming.

The only real question is how, if Gold as a critic is still using burner OpenTable account names and phone numbers, he’s been able to get in so many times so recently, when the rest of the city can’t seem to make a reservation for what seems like the next four months? Regardless, it’s nice to see Gold back in the city offering his take on the many great new restaurants cropping up, after spending time over the past few weeks reviewing the new Noma and eating pasta in Italy.

Eater’s own roving national critic Bill Addison has also managed to make it in a few times to Majordomo already, and left feeling like the restaurant could be America’s most important new dining experience so far this year.

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