Highland Park welcomes in a new wine bar this week with Holcomb, which opened October 23 on the eastern stretch of York Boulevard. It’s another fancy addition to the neighborhood, which has seen incredible growth over the past few years though not without some unintended effects for longtime residents. Still, Dustin Lancaster (Bar Covell, Firehouse) and co-owners Ross Stephenson and Michael Black have tried to do their best with adapting to Highland Park, with their solid hits Hi-Hat and Hermosillo staying approachable from price point to concept.
Holcomb doesn’t venture too far into the upscale, though the polished space sticks to a familiar recipe of easy wine-friendly fare and reasonably-priced wine by the glass. Nibble on tuna conserva, salumi, or mussel escabeche then finish off with a hefty pork rillette sandwich ($12). Or share a beef tartare and roasted potatoes with bacon and blue cheese. Wine glasses come from a tap, which reduces cost and waste, and most follow the natural bent that’s all the rage these days.
$10 glasses of Domaine Patience rosé, Folk Machine sauvignon blanc, or Workbook syrah/tempranillo introduce the glass list while something like the Deux Punx Oregon fills in at $16 a serving. Stephenson, who also oversees the beer list at Hermosillo, adds in some choice craft beer like a Hayabusa crisp lager from Beachwood brewing.
Hours for Holcomb run 5 p.m. to midnight on weekdays, and until 1 p.m. on weekends. 5535 York Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA.