Warm Up By the Hearth at Antico, Chad Colby’s New Italian Farmhouse in LA

It’s a good day to be chef Chad Colby. The Mozza alum has been waiting for literally years to put the bow on his first standalone restaurant Antico, and now that time has come. Here’s what to expect inside.

First, it should be noted that Antico is not some high-flying, well-heeled operation spinning to life in one of the city’s busiest (and most expensive) enclaves. No, this single-room strip mall restaurant stands at the edge of Larchmont, Koreatown, and Hollywood — they’re dubbing it East Larchmont Village — and mostly features a wide, long counter that looks into the kitchen and its massive hearth. The rest of the dining room is filled with simple warm woods and mellow tones, with room for group seating where diners can come together over a meal paced out by Colby himself.

As for the food, Antico certainly falls into the rustic Italian category, though focuses less on any one region or perspective. There will be rotating pastas on the menu and lots of grilled meats, of course, but also look for simple vegetable preparations and a surprisingly robust pastry program under Eleven Madison Park alum Brad Ray. Partner Kevin Caravelli, among his many duties, will pull wine bottles from a list that skews old but approachable. Here’s an early look at the Antico menu, which will change and shuffle throughout the seasons.

Antico opens to the world tonight. Reservations can be made on Resy, and one communal table is reserved for walk ins.

Antico. 4653 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, CA.

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