After well more than two years of ceasing operations, one of the top Ensenada-style fish taco vendors has returned. With a new location in East LA, you can now enjoy the flavors of Baja California, all while getting some work done on your old Chevy Impala. Using a recipe given to them by the owners of the famed Tacos El Fenix in Ensenada, brothers Juan Robert Sanchez and Ulysses Sanchez’s L Fish quickly found a place on the Eater 38 best tacos in 2018. But abruptly closed in March of the same year, due to permitting problems and inexperience in restaurant operations. They vowed to return once they found the right space.
“We were lucky to stumble upon this spot in East LA, where I’m able to run my lowrider mechanic shop on top of my taco spot,” says Juan Robert Sanchez. The stand reopened here in early August, making a subtle announcement on social media.
The current set up is a street stand in the front parking lot, shaded by a long white, L Fish banner. And we’re happy to report the tacos are better than ever. A light, crisp golden brown fry, as good as one will find north of the border, comes with good corn tortillas from a neighborhood tortilleria. A fresh, enticing condiment bar offers well-made standards like pico de gallo, grated cabbage, pickled onions, and salsas, as well as sour cream, creamy chipotle, and chile serrano sauces in squirt bottles. “We’re embracing the town we come from, right in the heart of East Los Angeles,” says Juan.
These are some of the best executed traditional Baja California-style fish and shrimp tacos in Los Angeles, with Pocho rules. In Ensenada, fish taco stands close by mid-afternoon, but the Sanchez brothers will be open until 8 p.m. Let them laugh in Ensenada, Rosarito, and Tijuana at fish tacos served at night, because this is East LA, where you can get a candy-red paint job, add chromed engine parts, and eat delicious fish tacos while you wait.
L Fish serves at 4153 Whittier Blvd, East LA, noon to 8 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday, closed Mondays.