If there’s one thing that Angelenos of all stripes can get behind, it’s a bowl of spicy noodles. Los Angeles loves the stuff in all its forms, which is — at least in part — what has helped to make Mian such a sensation across the Southland. The star restaurant, an offshoot of the Chengdu Taste empire run by Tony Xu and Sean Xie, began in the San Gabriel Valley but has now expanded its footprint to include Artesia, Las Vegas, and beyond. Next up: West Adams.
The new Mian, set to open this week for limited dinner service, mostly serves in hand-pulled Sichuan-style noodles offered in a variety of formats and heat levels, from brothy options with beef ribs to bowls of dry noodles with ground pork and a fried egg. There are dumplings and fried rice and cold appetizers to start as well, plus beer, natural wine, and soju to drink. The menu can be found here.
The arrival of Mian to West Adams has been planned since early 2019, though obviously, the pandemic put a damper on any kind of quick turnaround. Instead, the CIM Group — large-scale developers known for dramatically changing entire neighborhoods, like the Media District in Hollywood — used the time to continue to refine the new mixed-use building where Mian now sits, located at the corner of West Adams Boulevard and Cloverdale Avenue and close to Alta Adams, Mizlala (another CIM Group project), and other recent restaurant entrants.
While some newcomers to the neighborhood have cheered on CIM Group and its many developments in the area, from Mian to the redone Johnny’s West Adams, others have loudly voiced concerns about gentrification. The historically Black communities of West Adams and Jefferson Park have seen a cascade of changes in recent years, including new restaurants and bars (including the upcoming Cento Pasta Bar, Highly Likely, HomeState, and Party Beer Company) that now compete with longstanding operators like Taquería Los Anaya, Mel’s Fish Shack, and Harold & Belle’s.
The changing demographics and displacement issues surrounding the arrival of developers like CIM Group to West Adams have been front and center for years, sparking everything from stage productions to New York Times stories addressing higher home prices and economic uncertainty within the community. Much like Chinatown and other gentrifying areas, some groups in West Adams have begun to organize and push back against new development and the perceived lack of local investment into existing businesses and people.
The new Mian opens for limited dinner service this week, with eventual hours from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday (with an extension to 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights); closed Monday and Tuesday.