Melrose Place Just Got an Opulent Caviar Den Straight From Paris

The openings on West Hollywood’s tony stretch of Melrose Avenue (which have included the Butcher’s Daughter and Zinc Cafe of late) don’t seem to be slowing anytime soon: On October 20, Paris-based Caviar Kaspia unveiled its Los Angeles restaurant, lounge, and boutique tucked just around the corner at 8475 Melrose Place, in a space that used to house French restaurant Bastide. In addition to a Paris location, the 1927-founded caviar brand, which sources from around the globe, also has outposts in New York City, London, St. Tropez, Dubai, Sao Paolo, and others.

The Los Angeles restaurant is operated by a duo of fashion industry vets, Kith cofounder Sam Ben-Avraham and former Iro executive Rahav Zuta. A sweeping open-air garden — decked out in the brand’s signature robin’s egg blue and white tones with Art Deco accents, brushed copper detailing, and travertine flooring — can seat close to 50 guests. An indoor retail area outfitted with a fireplace and a Murano chandelier transforms into a lounge area for cocktails and more casual bites at night; there’s also an atrium that doubles as a private dining room that seats 15.

As for what’s on the menu, the focus is, not surprisingly, the brand’s assortment of fish roe. There is, of course, caviar service of seven different varieties at various weights and prices — which can also be ordered in “duets” or “trilogies” — served with traditional accoutrements. This being a luxury item, it doesn’t come cheap: Prices start at $110 for 30 grams of Royal Sturgeon caviar and run up to $1,990 for 250 grams of Sevruga, with plenty of options in between.

Signature dishes from the brand’s other restaurants, available during both lunch and dinner, include a baked potato with a choice of caviar ranging from royal white sturgeon to sevruga, as well as smoked salmon with blini. Also on offer are a tarragon-infused grilled cheese on potato bread spread with a thick layer of caviar, and pastas like squid-ink spaghetti with uni butter, salmon roe, Pecorino, and dill. In the future, the restaurant plans to offer a spin on a seafood tower that places roe front and center: Varieties of signature caviars will be joined by a bevy of vessels that go beyond the blini; they may include everything from fried peewee potatoes to deviled eggs to Parmesan gougères with avocado crema.

In the lounge, bites available to be topped with caviar include Dungeness crab crostini with chili-lime dressing; king salmon tartare served atop crispy rice cakes with ponzu; and a chopped salad tossed with green goddess-caviar dressing. Dushan Zaric of Employees Only has created an exclusive-to-LA sake-based cocktail and pairing program, while Caviar Kaspia’s private-label vodkas and a collection of Champagne are also available for sipping.

Caviar Kaspia is open for lunch walk-ins from noon to 4 p.m., and dinner for “friends and family” of the brand (to be added to the waitlist, visit the website), Monday through Saturday.