The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten this week.
Fish with black bean sauce at Broadway Cuisine in Chinatown
I was pleasantly surprised by the food at Broadway Cuisine in Chinatown, mostly because I hadn’t heard anything superlative about the experience since it changed ownership. Truth be told, this might be the best overall Chinese restaurant in Chinatown, better than my previous favorite Yang Chow. The cooking displays a balance between the Americanized Chinese food that folks expect in Chinatown and the flavors of regional Chinese cuisine. Sure, there are plump button mushrooms and red onion pieces with this fish in black bean sauce, but the vegetables displayed a slight but pleasing crunch. The fish was juicy and evenly cut while the sauce didn’t feel goopy or overwhelming. All the dishes we had showed this level of finesse, and the service was attentive too. My only qualm with the restaurant is its lack of windows, but after getting over that, I’ve decided Broadway Cuisine will be our family’s go-to in Chinatown. (There’s a small but free parking lot behind the building.) 913 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA, 90012. — Matthew Kang, lead editor
Chicory salad at Ètra in Melrose Hill
Ètra in Melrose Hill is one of the tougher tables to snag right now and for good reason, the vibe is electric while the cooking is approachable and shareable. A recent meal included plates of rigatoni Gricia and silky strands of bavette Nerano dotted with poached mussels, along with a well-cooked pork ribeye served with fennel salad. Of all the dishes that graced the table, it was the one piled high with bitter chicories with plenty of anchovy, black pepper, and cured yolk that left the strongest impression. Salads can often be an afterthought on a restaurant’s menu but chef Evan Algorri approaches roughage with panache and flavor, unleashing an avalanche of umami with every bite. 737 N. Western Avenue, Suite B, Los Angeles, CA 90029. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor
Hainan and fried chicken at Heng Heng Chicken Rice in Thai Town
The Hainan chicken at Heng Heng is outstanding, but the fried chicken might be even better. So the obvious answer is to do half of each, over a bed of garlic rice. The delicate flavors of the poached chicken are a good contrast to the crispiness of the fried crust, and a full slate of sauces completes the meal. 5420 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027. — Rebecca Roland, associate editor.
Kuya tray at Kuya Lord in Melrose Hill
Solo diners will love the experience at Kuya Lord, but grab a crew to consume chef Lord Maynard Llera’s Filipino menu. There is simply too much to try for one, plus the Kuya tray is an excellent value at $45. Select a main like the New Caledonian prawns in garlic crab sauce, tender hiramasa yellowtail fish collar, or the fantastic sausage long tapsilog. All come with garlic rice and sauteed mixed vegetables. But the lechon kawali is the one. The twice-cooked pork belly is juicy with crispy skin and is wonderful with the pancit chami (sweet and spicy noodles). Kuya Lord is one of the heartiest menus in the city, making it ideal while historic rain hammers the Southland. It’s best to order on-site so that everything comes out piping hot. So order, sit at one of the long tables in front of the high windows, and watch the city go by while enjoying all the flavors. 5003 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA, 90038 — Mona Holmes, reporter
Crispy lamb ribs at Momofuku in Las Vegas
From the moment I arrived on the Las Vegas strip this past weekend, I was pummeled with warm hospitality and superb food and drink. While the city’s crowds, clubs, and casinos can be a bit over-the-top for some, its collection of excellent places to eat brings me back once or twice a year. The best bite of the trip, which included meals at brand new spots like Orla from chef Michael Mina and LPM at the Cosmopolitan, was the lamb ribs at David Chang’s Momofuku. The meat — tender, fatty, and as crispy as promised — slid off the bone with ease. The marinade’s caramelized sweetness paired with a tangy chile yogurt reeled in the ribs’ richness. The Cosmopolitan, 3708 Las Vegas Boulevard, Las Vegas, NV 89109. — Cathy Chaplin, senior editor