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Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week

Follow Eater editors each week as they share their favorite dishes around town

The “Uni” dish with sea urchin roe and egg yolk confit at Mr. T in Hollywood.
The “Uni” dish with sea urchin roe and egg yolk confit at Mr. T in Hollywood.
Matthew Kang

The editors of Eater dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten recently.


February 6, 2023

“The Uni” at Mr. T in Hollywood

The “Uni” dish with sea urchin roe and egg yolk confit at Mr. T in Hollywood.
The “Uni” dish with sea urchin roe and egg yolk confit at Mr. T in Hollywood.
Matthew Kang

For a menu that’s supposed to reflect street food, I didn’t find too many dishes at Mr. T that felt like they would ever be served on the street. Not that we cared after getting this stunning plate of plump, fresh, and briny uni placed over fluffy confit egg imbued with even more uni flavor. A gentle mound of white stellar koshihikari rice brings in an extra layer of comfort. This was a dish worth savoring, like it was part of the appetizers in a high-end omakase restaurant, but served instead inside the boisterous, energetic dining room of this Paris transplant. What I appreciated most about this dish was how substantial it was. Often with uni dishes, there’s just a little less than you really want. Chef Alisa Vannah, who trained at Mozza and most recently at République, knows the power of really good uni with eggs, and this play on République’s signature starter is a real winner. 953 N. Sycamore Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90038 —Matthew Kang

Rack of lamb at Pardis in Glendale

Rack of lamb at Pardis in Glendale.
Rack of lamb at Pardis in Glendale.
Cathy Chaplin

Dinner at Pardis in Glendale turned out to be the perfect call for a casual but lovely night out with family on a Sunday evening. The dining room, with wood-paneled walls, modern lighting fixtures, and framed art, was lively when we arrived on the early side. A cocktail to start would’ve made for a festive time, but alas Monday was only a few short hours away. We started with a duo of strong appetizers, including the fried eggplant with caramelized onions (kashk bademjan) and the crispy tahdig ladled with two stews. While the koobideh and barg (thinly sliced filet mignon) were both delightful, the tenderness of the lamb, charred and caramelized just so, had us floored. Never say no to lamb ribs. 738 N. Glendale Avenue, Glendale, CA 91206. —Cathy Chaplin

Lobster and waffles at Saltie Girl in West Hollywood

Lobster and waffles at Saltie Girl in West Hollywood.
Lobster and waffles at Saltie Girl in West Hollywood.
Cathy Chaplin

Once settled into West Hollywood’s Saltie Girl, prepare your meal carefully. Always start with the cocktails, the seafood tower or the overwhelming number of tinned fish options, but be sure to leave room for the lobster and waffles. It’s a bold menu item in a town dedicated to chicken and waffles, but this dish could possibly be one for the ages. The base is well executed, a fluffy and slightly crispy waffle with sweet corn butter and maple syrup with a hint of heat. The deep-fried lobster is an ideal salty contrast. As someone who dug into the first bite with skepticism, this is something to return to Saltie Girl for, as is the free parking in the back of Sunset Plaza. 8615 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90069. —Mona Holmes

Pork shoulder breakfast burrito at Friends & Family in East Hollywood

Pork shoulder breakfast burrito at Friends & Family in East Hollywood.
Pork shoulder breakfast burrito at Friends & Family in East Hollywood.
Farley Elliott

The greatness of Friends & Family’s pastry case is not in question here. The East Hollywood/Thai Town corner restaurant is a James Beard Foundation Award semi-finalist in the Outstanding Bakery category, and its beautifully diverse array of morning treats is the stuff of Instagram envy — it’s just that there’s a lot of other really great stuff to eat at the restaurant, too. Among the many savory options is a slow-cooked pork breakfast burrito, tinged red from chiles and buoyed by both hominy and potatoes for heft. The whole wheat tortilla is griddled without shattering, and the soft scrambled eggs are just sturdy enough to pull it all together (thanks to some cheddar cheese) making this one of LA’s most unique breakfast options. Frankly, it eats more like a lunch dish than a traditional breakfast burrito, and perhaps that’s precisely the point. It could be argued that Friends & Family’s best breakfast options are still found in the pastry case — but the breakfast burrito isn’t far behind. 5150 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027. —Farley Elliott


January 30, 2023

Seaweed fried fish at Jiang Nan Spring in Alhambra

Seaweed fried fish at Jiang Nan Spring in Alhambra.
Seaweed fried fish at Jiang Nan Spring in Alhambra.
Matthew Kang

I visited Jiang Nan Spring this past weekend during Lunar New Year celebrations which meant the dining room was absolutely packed, lending a real banquet energy to the Shanghainese specialist. The best dish on the lazy susan during our meal was the seaweed fried fish, sporting a light, almost tempura-style batter and wisps of umami-rich seafood. The batter managed to stay relatively crisp for the duration of our meal, with the flakey fish showing a tender sweetness with every bite. Sprinkle on a bit of salt and white pepper to taste. 910 E. Main Street, Alhambra, CA 91801. —Matthew Kang

Mini caviar roll at Saltie Girl in West Hollywood

Mini caviar roll at Saltie Girl in West Hollywood.
Mini caviar roll at Saltie Girl in West Hollywood.
Cathy Chaplin

The newish restaurant Saltie Girl is taking to West Hollywood like a fish takes to water. The wraparound dining room, awash in pale blues and hot pinks, is already full of revelers clawing at seafood towers while sipping well-made drinks. The collection of menus — one dedicated to hot food, another to raw bar selections, and separate ones for caviar service and tinned seafood — that greets diners can be a lot to navigate on an empty stomach so the move here is to settle into the task with a mini caviar roll in hand. Served on a toasted split-top bun with the option to add warm butter-poached lobster, the two-bite wonder fires on all flavor cylinders. Rich and savory, this dish is the starter that everyone absolutely needs to settle into Saltie Girl, and yes, definitely add the lobster. 8615 Sunset Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90069. —Cathy Chaplin

Cheesesteak pizza at Schellz Pizza Company in South LA

Los Angeles first began falling in love with lofty, crusty pan-style pizzas during the first wave of the pandemic in 2020, and since then the trend has only further solidified itself as a new kind of standalone LA style. There are plenty of places that tweak the usual Detroit moniker to fit their own needs — see the quality slices at Quarter Sheets for one example, or the pepperoni-heavy Emmy Squared in Santa Monica for another — but only one that’s using a pseudo-Japanese milk bread recipe as a base for even springier, lighter pies. Schellz, which began as a very underground pizza operation in Downtown LA in 2020, is now offering its unique “hokkaidough” pizzas and loaves every week (the weekend-only bread sells out fast) from a ghost kitchen on Crenshaw just outside of Inglewood, and fans are queueing up to score medium and large pizzas on the regular, particularly during busy weekends of TV-watching bliss. Tickets were pouring in on Sunday ahead of (and during) the NFL conference championship games, which made Schellz’s Philadelphia-esque cheesesteak pizza all the more appealing. Needless to say, adding shaved beef, peppers, mushrooms, red onions, and lots of cheese to extra light, crusty-edged pan pizzas are never a bad idea. 6732 Crenshaw Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA. 90043 —Farley Elliott


January 23, 2023

Red pepper-glazed bass collar at Cafe Basque in Downtown

Red pepper-glazed bass collar at Cafe Basque in Downtown.
Red pepper-glazed bass collar at Cafe Basque in Downtown.
Matthew Kang

Daniel Rose’s new Cafe Basque occupies the ground floor of the Hoxton like it’s been there for ages, so seamless has the transition been for Rose’s ‘sunshine cooking’ of the cuisine hugging the eastern Atlantic and its bounty of seafood. The red pepper-glazed sea bass collar was the brightest star on our table, with charred skin and a mild heat simmering through every bite. There are plenty of bones and other bits, but navigate through them to find succulent, sweet fish elevated by a tinge of lemony tang. Just don’t feel ashamed to pick out those bones, that’s just part of the experience. 1060 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90015. —Matthew Kang

New York-ish slices at Ghisallo in Santa Monica

New York-ish slices at Ghisallo in Santa Monica.
New York-ish slices at Ghisallo in Santa Monica.
Farley Elliot

Ocean Park Boulevard’s ascension as a true restaurant row has been shocking to many Westsiders, given the street’s enduring reputation as a sleepy afterthought compared to the heart of Santa Monica proper. Yet emerge the area has, thanks to a bunch of new restaurant openings (including high-end Japanese restaurant Shunji) and nearby staples like Lunetta up on Pico Boulevard. Among the hottest newer entrants to the area is Ghisallo, a California pizza-focused restaurant that turns out blistered and crispy pizzas all day long from a dome oven inside the glassy space. The back patio fills up fast on weekends, and after school lets out the by-the-slice options that go even faster, so plan accordingly. For simple, easy eating before the madness, get there early in the afternoon to catch a $5 margherita slice; the wide single-serve slice hangs well off the side of the plate and is best eaten fast on the street patio in the front. Los Angeles isn’t much of a town for quality, fast pizza slices, but Ghisallo is helping to change that narrative — and the narrative of the neighborhood, too. 1622 Ocean Park Boulevard, Santa Monica, CA 90405. —Farley Elliott

Cardamom and Meyer lemon morning bun at Bub and Grandma’s Restaurant in Glassell Park

Cardamom and Meyer lemon morning bun at Bub and Grandma’s Restaurant in Glassell Park.
Cardamom and Meyer lemon morning bun at Bub and Grandma’s Restaurant in Glassell Park.
Cathy Chaplin

I swing into Bub and Grandma’s Restaurant monthly to replenish my family’s bread supply — we go through four to five loaves surprisingly fast. Try as I might to focus on the task at hand during these straightforward trips, the glorious array of pastries behind the glass takeout window never fails to call my name. It’s usually the doughnuts iced in seasonally-driven flavors that I find difficult to resist, especially the passion fruit one, but recently I picked up a crisp and swirly morning bun. Coated in coarse sugar, the flaky pastry boasted the mildest hint of cardamom and a gooey caramelized bottom of Meyer lemon. The bun’s supremely satisfying texture and superb flavors had me wishing I’d purchased more than just one. Next time. 3507 Eagle Rock Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90065. —Cathy Chaplin

Pepperoni pizza at Quarter Sheets in Echo Park

Pepperoni pizza at Quarter Sheets in Echo Park.
Pepperoni pizza at Quarter Sheets in Echo Park.
Mona Holmes

If you have friends or family with newborn children, your official duty is to deliver food, a bottle of wine, adult company, and good cheer. On Friday night, I showed up to the doorstep of new parents bearing a Quarter Sheets goodie bag which included a bottle of Fio Rose Pet Nat, a slice of co-owner Hannah Ziskin’s spongey, creamy chiffon princess cake, and two pizzas by Aaron Lindell. While the cake made for a fantastic dessert, these parents highly appreciated a whole thick, pan-style pepperoni pie. Lindell’s pizzas regularly sell out, and it’s not uncommon to see lines of people waiting for a table or navigating the challenging parking situation to pick up a to-go order. Order way ahead to secure a favorite option. 1305 Portia Street, Echo Park, CA, 90026. —Mona Holmes


January 17, 2023

French onion soup at Musso & Frank Grill in Hollywood

Onion soup from Musso & Frank Grill in Hollywood.
Onion soup from Musso & Frank Grill in Hollywood.
Matthew Kang

It’s not easy to find the best things to eat at Musso & Frank Grill because other than the jellied consomme or martinis, not much has been written about the actual food at Hollywood’s most iconic restaurant. Yes, the service and the ambiance are damn near unbeatable in Los Angeles, but there are some good things to eat too, like this French onion soup topped with blistered cheese and chunks of crusty bread. The balance of the beefy broth was just right between the sweet, caramelized onions and all the salty elements. What I appreciated about this was the fresh thyme and other herbs that cut through that richness of everything, making me want to spoon up even the last bit of soup. Oh, and the spicy rigatoni pasta is terrific too, in case you’re looking for something else to eat. 6667 Hollywood Boulevard, Hollywood, CA 90028. —Matthew Kang

Spicy beef soup noodles at Mian in West Adams

Spicy beef noodle soup at Mian in West Adams in a white bowl.
Spicy beef noodle soup at Mian in West Adams.
Mona Holmes

While traveling from the Westside to Downtown last week, the sky decided to open like a violent waterfall. This was a downpour that rendered most streets unnavigable, so I pulled off the 10 and into Mian West Adams for a bowl of spicy beef noodle soup. Well-established in the San Gabriel Valley, owners Tony Xu and Sean Xie opened this Chengdu Taste spinoff in West Adams in 2021. This outlet is an ideal place for groups, or in this case, a solo diner waiting for driving conditions to improve. Order any variety of Mian’s Sichuan-style noodles, but pay special attention to the spicy beef. It’s got chunks of tender beef and chiles, plus ample broth balanced by soybean sauce. There’s plenty of baby bok choy and celery throughout, and the bowl is topped with fresh cilantro. Pick up the bowl to finish the broth and you’ll be ready for any journey afterward. 5263 W. Adams Boulevard, West Adams, CA, 90016. —Mona Holmes

Gumboyaya at Darrow’s New Orleans Grill in Carson

Gumboyaya from Darrow’s New Orleans Grill in Carson in a black plastic bowl.
Gumboyaya from Darrow’s New Orleans Grill.
Matthew Kang

Affable Norwood Clark Jr. is a commanding presence at his Creole restaurant Darrow’s New Orleans Grill in Carson, which just celebrated its seventh anniversary in the South Bay this past weekend. Clark Jr. beckons newcomers and seasoned veterans alike while manning the register. Other workers exude the same joy and enthusiasm for one of LA’s top Creole restaurants. The soulful food packs a flavor punch, from the comforting shrimp po’ boy and red beans with rice to the gumboyaya, a combination of two of New Orleans’ most famous dishes. The gumbo sports a soupy, well-seasoned broth with plenty of andouille sausage while the pat of jambalaya stands in for plain white rice. Sprinkle on some Frank’s Red Hot sauce and the flavors get turned to 11, with the tangy, acidic sauce providing a necessary balance to the earthy, spicy notes of the gumbo and jambalaya. The only thing missing was a live band, which Clark Jr. said helped commemorate the restaurant’s anniversary this past weekend. 21720 Avalon Boulevard #102, Carson, CA 90745. —Matthew Kang

New Haven-style pizzas at Ozzy’s Pizza in Glendale

Underdogs is the little sports bar that could, tucked away beneath street level in Glendale near the Americana. The subterranean hangout has built a loyal following thanks to its many TVs, strong drinks list, and the emergence of pizza pop-up Ozzy’s Apizza in the space. The New Haven-style specialists are turning out some of the city’s most delicious pizzas right now (forgive the unusual location), turning up the heat for darkened, thin, and crispy pies that truly feel like eating great East Coast pizza. The project, born out of the pandemic by a pair of slice-obsessed friends with New Haven ties, is quickly catching on with greater Glendale, and the duo has plans to expand hours and menu items in the very near future. For now try any of the six or so simple pizzas —the saucy tomato pie is certainly worth its own look — either on-site with a beer or at home, but beware: right now orders are only available three nights a week. Plan ahead, DM to preorder, and get ready to be surprised by some of the tastiest new pizza in the city. 156 S. Brand Boulevard, Glendale, CA 91204. —Farley Elliott


January 3, 2023

Sichuan hot chicken sandwich at Daybird in Koreatown

Sichuan hot chicken sandwich at Daybird in Koreatown.
Sichuan hot chicken sandwich at Daybird in Koreatown.
Cathy Chaplin

Chef Mei Lin’s fried chicken shack Daybird has been on my ever-growing list of places to try since it opened in May 2021. The long lines that snaked out the storefront following the splashy opening have since subsided, which meant that only a short wait after placing my order kept me from this magnificent Sichuan hot chicken number. The heart of the sandwich is a massive hunk of Jidori chicken thigh expertly fried in rice bran oil to a golden, crunchy crisp. The chicken is as juicy as hoped with a heavy coat of seasonings that pack real heat and nuanced flavor. Coleslaw with pickled chiles brightens the entire package, while a hardworking potato bun neatly holds everything together. This sandwich delivers in every way. 240 N. Virgil Avenue, Suite 5, Los Angeles, CA 90004. —Cathy Chaplin

Chocolate starry night mousse cake at Dōmi

Chocolate starry night mousse cake at Dōmi.
Chocolate starry night mousse cake at Dōmi.
Mona Holmes

You’ve seen Dōmi’s gorgeous baked goods on social media or on this very website. Dōmi’s Instagram posts are indeed eye-catching, but its products are even more beautiful in person. Owners Evelyn Ling and Joe Cheng Reed expertly make a range of stunning baked goods like the profiteroles, a chocolate salted caramel black sesame cake, strawberry milk tea cookies, and the perpetually sold-out everything milk bun. Opt for the glazed mousse cake, which is the equivalent of taking a bite from a Van Gogh painting with layers of chocolate, vanilla, and hojicha or jasmine mousse. It’s the kind of cake that will be marveled over, simply because there is something unique about Ling and Cheng Reed’s outstanding creations. Dōmi only takes orders through its website, with either Locale delivery or scheduled pickups in the Arts District and Temple City. Always check Instagram for updates because this bakery is quite popular and sells out quickly. 672 South Santa Fe Avenue, Los Angeles, CA, 90021. —Mona Holmes

Chilaquiles breakfast burrito at Tacos El Gringo in Anaheim

Chilaquiles breakfast burrito at Tacos El Gringo in Anaheim.
Chilaquiles breakfast burrito at Tacos El Gringo in Anaheim.
Farley Elliott

In the never-ending quest to add crunch and texture to the modern breakfast burrito, most places have opted to shortcut things by tossing in some tater tots. That’s great for fans of starchy potatoes, but Tacos El Gringo out of Anaheim knows that there is another way: lots of saucy-but-still-crisp tortilla chips. The small walk-up at the Make development loads up its chilaquiles breakfast burritos with plenty of crunch, taking a Mexican breakfast staple and wrapping it together in one warming, griddled, eggy package. There are other breakfast options on the menu as well (try the Farmhouse, with multiple types of meat including carne asada), but for fans of pure texture, it’s all about the chilaquiles iteration, best served with bacon. 500 South Anaheim Boulevard, Anaheim, CA 92805. —Farley Elliott

Cheeseburger special at Irv’s in West Hollywood

Cheeseburger special at Irv’s in West Hollywood.
Cheeseburger special at Irv’s in West Hollywood.
Matthew Kang

The cheeseburger special inspired by the acclaimed film The Menu doesn’t depart too significantly from Irv’s regular burger, but the little details make this something worth seeking out during the month of January while it’s available. With a smattering of paper-thin onions and copious American cheese, this juicy, gooey burger satisfies better than an entire tasting menu of fussy food. With fantastic seared patties and a plush sesame seed bun, this $9.95 special also comes with a side of fries. My tray of fries was mushy and old, unfortunately, but my dining companion’s were golden brown and crispy. Still, the burger shines through, and of course, each special comes with a pre-doodled paper plate that longtime owner Sonia Hong would’ve drawn for customers. 7998 Santa Monica Boulevard, West Hollywood, CA 90046. —Matthew Kang


January 3, 2023

Milk and honey at Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura in Beverly Hills

Milk and honey at Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura in Beverly Hills.
Milk and honey at Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura in Beverly Hills.
Cathy Chaplin

While I generally try to keep Dead Week as non-committal as possible, the opportunity to close out 2022 in grand fashion with dinner at Gucci Osteria proved too enticing to resist. While lunchtime features an a la carte menu, dinner is a prix fixe affair with three different menus to choose from. One of the highlights from my final fancy feast of last year was a luscious milk- and honey-inspired dessert crafted by pastry chef Tamara Rigo. Honey sourced from the Santa Monica farmers market was drizzled tableside, catching the structure’s honeycombed ridges and rich custard base, and providing a sweet ending to a very lovely meal (and year). 347 North Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. —Cathy Chaplin

Yucca fries at Mírate in Los Feliz

Rooftop dining room with tables, chairs, and lots of plants at Mírate in Los Angeles, California.
Yucca fries at Mírate in Los Feliz.
Sierra Prescott

Of all the spectacular dishes to come out of chef Joshua Gil’s kitchen in Los Feliz, I was a bit surprised by a standout that’s usually relegated to a side dish: yucca. Mírate’s menu is a casual shift from Mírame — its sister restaurant in Beverly Hills — and there’s a lot to take in. Start by exploring the stunning, multi-level, slightly outdoor restaurant, then move on to the menu that spans from kanpachi aguachile to steak tlayudas or lamb barbacoa flautas. When choosing a drink, there are two separate bars with entirely different options: one with a curated mezcal collection, and another with rare gins, rums, and agave-based spirits. Former Gracias Madre barman Max Reis concocted an incredible take on a margarita called el guero with tequila, aguachile, nopales granita, and coconut. Once done taking everything in, order the guero and the fried yucca, which can be made with or without the chorizo. This root vegetable is difficult to master (it’s often served oily, overly crunchy, or undercooked) but Gil’s have a gorgeous consistency and are even more flavorful with a sprinkling of cheese and a few aromatics that provide some heat. 1712 North Vermont Avenue, Los Feliz, CA, 90027.—Mona Holmes

Macau Pork Chop Bun at Pearl River Deli in Chinatown

Macau Pork Chop Bun at Pearl River Deli in Chinatown.
Macau Pork Chop Bun at Pearl River Deli in Chinatown.
Farley Elliott

It’s not every day that a sandwich arrives at your table with a pork bone hanging out one end. The bone-in sandwich look isn’t entirely new, even these days — try sorting through the endless beef rib sandwich photos that pop up on social media — but it’s still a bit of a mind-bender at first. At Chinatown’s Pearl River Deli, bending time and space to its will is basically the ethos of the entire restaurant. There are familiar-looking black and white sandwich cookies in the desert case that feel grocery store basic but are actually called L’Aureos, because they’re made by hand by baker Laura Hoang (a.k.a. @Largwa). The chow fun feels like a mall staple, but here it’s springier and impossibly delicious. And that bone-in Macau pork chop bun? It’s large but not impossibly so, with a substantial yet airy bun and just the right amount of crust on the chop itself. Leaving the bone in is actually part of the beauty of this sandwich, allowing diners to enjoy every inch of bun-sauce-pork, with room to nibble on the rounded edges at the end. Maybe the bone is there, really, as a nod to the fact that this sandwich is basically impossible to put down because it’s so good. Hold on, the bone says, because this one is going to wow you. 935 Mei Ling Way, Los Angeles, CA 90012. —Farley Elliott

Potato mille-feuille at Petrossian at Tiffany’s in Costa Mesa

Potato mille-feuille at Petrossian in Costa Mesa.
Potato mille-feuille at Petrossian in Costa Mesa.
Matthew Kang

I’ll say yes to a thousand layers of anything, especially a thinly-fried cube of potato topped with a solid daub of caviar. The lunch situation at Petrossian, set inside the Tiffany store at South Coast Plaza, could be the ultimate ladies-who-lunch venue in Orange County (with prices to match). This tiny but mighty bite of crispy potato has just the mildest smear of creme fraiche to help cut through the dozens of layers of the elegant fried tuber. Of course, the salty, briny pops of umami from the caviar on top amplify the feeling of luxury. Even in a place like this, with Petrossian caviar on virtually every dish, the humble potato steals the show. And it sure tastes better than a mound of sterling silver. 3333 Bristol Street, Costa Mesa, CA. —Matthew Kang

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