Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week

The editors of Eater dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we’re always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here’s the very best of everything the team has eaten recently.

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September 25, 2023

Scallop quenelle at Pasjoli in Santa Monica

Celebrating its fourth anniversary, Pasjoli in Santa Monica prepared a five-course rundown of some of its most popular dishes through the years. Dave Beran’s remarkable French restaurant continues to prepare some of the most elegant dishes in the city without a sense of arrogance or fussiness, but instead through the lens of quiet luxury.

Consider this scallop quenelle, milder than the traditional pike quenelle of old-school French fine dining, served with a lightly briney caviar-laden beurre blanc that reintroduces that pike flavor in a subtle way. Dabbed with fresh chervil, Pasjoli might be the only place in town doing these Escoffier-level dishes in a setting that befits their past glory. The table next to us specifically asked for an extra portion because they loved this dish so much. Of course, the pressed duck and souffle will wow anyone, but this refined starter made me feel like I was experiencing a fine restaurant from a hundred years ago, but in beachy, sunny Santa Monica. 2732 Main Street, Santa Monica, CA 90405 —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Corneal-crusted Nashville hot catfish at Joyce in Downtown

Even though Joyce is barely a month old, the Southern restaurant with chef Sammy Monsour at the helm is already firing on all cylinders. The vibrant crowd on a recent Saturday night reveled in good vibes and even better food. After beginning our meal with oysters from Murder Point, Alabama that were wonderfully bright, briny, and meaty, an order of the hot catfish was just the thing to settle into warmer plates. Buttermilk-marinaded and cornmeal-crusted, the catfish filets were equal parts crisp and tender. Fried dill pickles and a rich remoulade completed the deceptively simple but wholly satisfying package. 770 S. Grand Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90017. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Sonoran wheat croissants at Friends & Family in Hollywood

Wonho Frank Lee

It’s no secret (anymore) that perhaps the most beautiful, lovingly overstuffed pastry case in Los Angeles can be found at Friends & Family, in East Hollywood’s Thai Town corridor. Roxana Jullapat and company make each weekend a delight of grains and fillings, with flavors bursting at peak ripeness and dark, rich wheat punctuating classic Viennoiserie preparations. The case is all substance but it doesn’t skimp on the show, either, with crispy cheese edges spilling out of morning croissants and puffed pastry spilling over with rainbows of fruit filling.

Perhaps the most honest way into the case at Friends & Family is by enjoying the simple pleasures of the Sonoran wheat croissant, a treat that is equal parts light and flaky and rustic and warming thanks to said wheat. Rather than fall apart into airy nothingness, these are sturdy morning starters that speak to the whole-grain ethos of Jullapat’s baking. It’s busy days (especially on weekends) at Friends & Family, but arriving early enough to snag one of those burnished beauties is important. It sets the tone for the day, gives diners a sense of what Friends & Family is all about, and shows just how powerful LA’s baking scene really is. 5150 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90027. —Farley Elliott, senior editor

Jerk salmon at chef Kyndra’s Underground Supper Club

Before I get into this dish, I need to talk about the setup at chef Kyndra’s Underground Supper Club. Swift Cafe chef/owner Kyndra McCrary is in the process of relocating her shuttered Leimert Park restaurant to Inglewood’s Hollywood Park, and recently launched a monthly dinner series to introduce SoCal to new chefs and flavors. The Frogtown room was filled with gorgeous tables, live musicians, an open bar from 1010 Wine & Events showcasing Black-owned spirits, and a masseuse crew ready to work out tension for all attendees (I received a neck and shoulder massage after the second course). Vocalists sang, and a DJ masterfully mixed soulful tracks as the crowd enthusiastically responded, while electric slides were danced in the room.

McCrary’s angle with the series is to curate a fresh group of chefs at each event — this time with chefs Courtney Wright, Johnene Breaux, and Ty Stanford — who brought out seven courses. It wasn’t my first time trying one of McCrary’s jerk dishes, but this salmon was perfectly spiced along with thyme, onion, caramelized plantain, and a mango salsa. As someone with roots from Barbados, the entire dish hit but her coconut rice with pigeon peas made me immediately ask when and where she’ll host the next one. It’s a Friendsgiving-themed event on November 19, with the location TBD. Follow her on Instagram to find out where. 2738 Gilroy Street, Frogtown, CA, 90039. — Mona Holmes, reporter

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September 18, 2023

Bánh mì chao at Nep Cafe in Irvine

The lunchtime wait at the new Nep Cafe in Irvine was at least 45 minutes last Friday — and the restaurant has only been open, with limited hours, for a week. That’s the power of Nep and Kei Concepts, one of a handful of Orange County restaurant groups speaking directly to a youthful, highly engaged dining audience south of Los Angeles. The results inside the new Nep Cafe are staggering, with hundreds showing up daily to down all-day brunch fare with a Vietnamese pulse. The menu is filled with hits, particularly the Sichuan spicy noodles, crab toast, and bánh mì chao, a skillet filled with eggs, onions, choice of meat (best to opt for the filet mignon), pate, and tomatoes. It’s a filling but shareable option that lands at almost every table, and that’s no small feat considering just how busy the place is right now. Thankfully, they do take reservations. 14346 Culver Drive, Irvine, CA 92604. — Farley Elliott, senior editor

Tomato perilla salad at Kinn in Koreatown

The seven-course tasting menu at Kinn in Koreatown captures the best of summer’s bounty in Southern California. A luscious corn and scallop soup starts everything off before winding to tender slices of bulgogi garnished with ripe peaches and finishing with a watermelon fruit salad. The ingredients are completely of the moment, while the flavors and formats reflect chef Ki Kim’s distinct modern Korean point of view. While it’s hard to choose a favorite among the parade of hits, the tomato perilla salad was absolutely stunning. Juicy-sweet tomatoes were at the forefront, their tangy profile reminiscent of naengmyeon broth, while a perilla sorbet brought an herbaceous and cooling effect. Dabs of burrata and smoked trout roe added just a touch of richness. 3905 W. 6th Street, Los Angeles, CA 90020. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Afternoon tea at the Huntington’s Rose Garden Tea Room in Pasadena

There are benefits to putting on a bright-colored dress, donning a hat, and taking a group of friends to the Huntington for afternoon tea. I admit that it’s been years since I consumed high tea. This activity requires dressing the part while taking in a well-appointed dining room with excellent tea, Champagne, and a tower of sweet and savory bites. The array of savories included finger sandwiches with cucumber, another with tarragon chicken salad, and one with smoked salmon dill cream cheese and caviar, along with a deviled egg salad served in a dainty phyllo dough cup. They’re all tasty (including the basket of scones) and perfect on a sunny afternoon in one of LA’s most historic gardens. Reservations are tough to book, but keep trying while the adjacent roses are in bloom. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, CA, 91108. — Mona Holmes, reporter

Singapore Chile Lobster from Paradise Dynasty in Costa Mesa

Paradise Dynasty was delicious enough that we actually made two visits last week, separated by six days. Though weekends are bustling, with lengthy waits, the weekday lunch scene is pretty restrained, with plenty of seating and relaxed Cantonese and Taiwanese specialties at prices within arm’s reach. While things like fried noodles and silken tofu work as tasty starters, the Singapore chile lobster comes as a baller entree worth sharing. Seasoned with the sweet, slightly spicy seasoning of Singapore, this version is served with chunks of lobster tail instead of crab. It’s a bit of a challenge to pick the lobster chunks out of the shell without using your fingers, but that’s half the fun (it might be good to provide some wet napkins afterward). Chewy rice cakes swim amid a sticky sauce that recalls breezy nights in Southeast Asia but with air conditioning, swift service, and a Bloomingdale’s next door. Paradise Dynasty will open soon at the Americana at Brand in Glendale, taking over the former Din Tai Fung, and while many will make the comparison between the two xiao long bao purveyors, in my mind, Paradise Dynasty reaches higher heights with dishes like this lobster special. 3333 Bristol Street, BLM, 1 Bloomingdale’s, Costa Mesa, CA 92626. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

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September 11, 2023

The not-so-simple white slice at Shins Pizza in Cypress Park

The star of the show at the new Shins Pizza in Cypress Park is undoubtedly the white slice. It’s a surprising thing in a way, in part because LA isn’t nearly as much of a slice city as places on the East Coast. Even within that genre, the favorites are usually pepperoni, sausage, or plain cheese — not a ricotta-forward, no-red-sauce option. The reason for the attention at Shins is the addition of a luxurious and wide mortadella slice, adding even more rich fattiness to the pizza beyond the cheese, olive oil, and garlic. Stop by soon to belly up to the window for a slice or three, and don’t forget to order the barbecue pork arancini on the side, too. 1215 1/2 Cypress Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90065. — Farley Elliott, senior editor

Spicy cold bibim noodles at Sulga House of Beef Bone Soup in Koreatown

New ownership of Sulga House of Beef Bone Soup took over just before the pandemic, and over the past few years, the menu has expanded to more than just beef bone soup, like cold bibim myeon. A big endorsement from Past Lives actress Greta Lee a few months ago helped introduce this mom-and-pop to a totally new crowd, with TikTokers and other social media following suit. There’s a special balance between spicy, savory, and salty in the bibim myeon that helps the pleasantly chewy acorn noodles stay interesting with every bite. The plating, usually a bit of an afterthought at Korean restaurants, is intricate and beautiful, which only adds to the enjoyment. With the warm weather continuing through the last days of summer into the first days of fall in LA, there’s no better time to tuck into a bowl of bibim myeon. (Note: it’s closed Mondays and Tuesdays). 4451 Beverly Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA, 90004. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Stir-fried pork intestines Xian Biang Biang in San Gabriel

You absolutely must order the signature biang biang noodles when dining at XiAn Biang Biang Noodle in San Gabriel, a newish spot tucked on the ground floor of an aging strip mall with surprisingly few restaurants. The ropey strands deliver a wonderfully toothsome bite that may very well be the platonic ideal of this regional Chinese specialty in Los Angeles at the moment. Also toothsome and fabulous are the fried been jelly found under the “local specialty” portion of the menu and the “big plate” preparation made with chicken or lamb. The stir-fried pork intestines, a last-minute addition to a noodle-focused lunch, turned out to be the dish I can’t stop thinking about. Wok-fried with enough dried chiles and Sichuan peppercorns to set my mouth afire, the intestines delivered a pleasantly chewy texture and satisfying burn I was hoping for. 1039 E. Valley Boulevard, Suite B102, San Gabriel, CA 91776. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Coal-roasted stone fruits at Best Bet in Culver City

Jason Neroni’s new Best Bet has some incredible wood-fired focaccia and Montanara-style crispy pizzas. Still, it blows any average pizza joint out of the water by showcasing peak seasonal produce in creative, flavorful ways. Take the coal-roasted stone fruits for example, placed on some pistachio puree and topped with peppered lardo, Meyer lemon, fresh herbs, Aleppo pepper, and pistachios. The cured pork fat is cut so thinly that it melts in your mouth, and the fruits are roasted to the point where they are soft and succulent. The pistachio puree is sweet and complex enough that I’d order the whole dish again for dessert, with a flavor akin to marzipan and a texture more like cream. Since it’s seasonal, it’s likely that the dish won’t be on the menu forever. I’d try it (and try it again) while you can. 12565 Washington Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90066. — Virali Dave, editor

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September 5, 2023

Tagliatelle alla bettola at Made in Italy in Westlake Village

As someone who spends quite a bit of time in the Conejo Valley, Westlake Village’s Made in Italy is one of my go-to spots for any night when I’m craving pasta. Of the four times I ended up ordering stellar pasta dishes last week — from Uovo in Studio City, Posto 896 in Encino, and Made in Italy and Farfalla in Westlake Village — Made in Italy’s penne alla bettola, with tagliatelle subbed for penne, was by far the best. The pasta at this bistro is always handmade and al dente, and served with plenty of tomato and cream sauce that clings to the noodles. The dish is rich and hearty and served in portions generous enough to take some pasta home for later. For those avoiding wheat, the gluten-free version is truly just as good. Served fresh, the dish is tender and comforting. If you can manage to wait to finish your leftovers until the next day, the reward is pasta with even more potent flavors and plenty of creaminess and umami. 3825 E. Thousand Oaks Boulevard, Unit F, Westlake Village, CA 91362. — Virali Dave, editor

Jokbal at Wangbal in Koreatown

Every cuisine has a kind of “approval” dish, a lesser-known or somewhat intimidating dish that, if eaten, often earns the approval of fans of that cuisine. Think stinky tofu for Taiwanese, or natto for Japanese, or escamol for Mexican, or Rocky Mountain oysters for…American? Anyway, with the point made, I would submit jokbal for one of Korean cuisine’s hardcore dishes, certainly less intimidating than sannakji (chopped still-alive octopus) or hongeo-hoe (fermented skate wing), but definitely more challenging than bossam. Cooked in a similar way, the gelatinous, meaty sliced pig’s foot is always served in a mound larger than one could fathom at the center of the table, with sides of pickled daikon slivers and blanched napa cabbage. New Koreatown restaurant Wangbal’s version is exemplary, melding juicy steamed meat with pleasantly chewy, seasoned pork skin. Dip into the fermented shrimp sauce (saeu-jeot) and wrap with a few raw garlic slices and a piece of jalapeno for a blast of crunch, umami, fat, and flesh. Your Korean friends will approve. (N.B. the bossam, slightly sweet and extremely tender, will cater to tamer palates). 4251 W. 3rd Street, Los Angeles, CA 90020. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Loaded brisket fries at Maple Block Meat Co. at Grand Central Market

It’s hard to overstate the importance of loaded French fries to the Los Angeles dining landscape. They may not get the same level of attention as the city’s finer dining spots or big new openings, but there are legions of loyalists who love the carne asada fries, carnitas fries, and hot chicken fries of LA’s strip malls and quiet neighborhood spots. A more recent addition to the genre is the brisket fries basket, a (usually) holdable platter of crispy potatoes run over with rich beef brisket chunks and all manner of other toppings. At Maple Block Meat Co.’s new location at Grand Central Market, the fries are also hit with cheese sauce, pico de gallo, and chipotle aioli, meaning a fork is required and a crisp beer is heavily encouraged. Sporting one of the best patios in all of Downtown, the new Maple Block is a destination for ribs, smoked chicken wings, and all kinds of sides, of course, but for pure LA deliciousness, grab some silverware and dig into a pile of those loaded brisket fries. 317 S. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90013. — Farley Elliott, senior editor

Branzino piccata at La Dolce Vita in Beverly Hills

There’s much to appreciate about the rebooted La Dolce Vita in Beverly Hills. The backdrop of plush red booths, moody lighting, and cheetah print set a playful and inviting tone, while the menu of Italian American fare dazzles with its approachability and execution. The Big Eye tuna tartare, along with the chilled seafood salad, make for easy appetizers before diving headfirst into as many noodles as one’s party can handle. The spaghetti and meatballs are rightfully popular, but don’t ignore the bucatini al limone and the tagliatelle vongole. While it might seem like skipping large-format proteins is the move here, it’d be a shame to ignore the branzino piccata. With plenty of pop from briny capers, the crispy-skinned filet was perfectly cooked and tasted like a lemony dream. 9785 S. Santa Monica Boulevard, Beverly Hills, CA 90210. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

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August 28, 2023

Beef pho French dip at Sesame Dinette in Long Beach

On my last day of parental leave, we took a trip to the Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach, but not before a quick lunch at Sesame Dinette for some modern takes on Vietnamese food. The standard beef pho was terrific, but my pho French dip was the winner of the table, made with Persian barbari bread, onion slivers, basil, and thinly sliced beef. I chose to pack in some jalapeno slices for extra flavor and then spooned on the pho broth so the ingredients wouldn’t spill out. Indeed, all the flavors of beef pho were there but packaged in a way you could only find in LA. The crunch of the onions and minty freshness of the basil cut through the rich broth and beef. If I lived closer, I could see myself craving this sandwich for lunch regularly. 1750 Pacific Avenue, Unit B, Long Beach, CA 90813. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Vesuviotti at Grandmaster Recorders in Hollywood

Grandmaster Recorders is a 15,000-square-foot multi-level space located in the heart of Hollywood, serving Italian and Australian fare alongside some of the best Negronis in Los Angeles and an impressive array of wines. Given Grandmaster Recorders’s past as a recording studio, there’s always a real vibe at the restaurant — tasteful music, groups celebrating special occasions, couples on dates, and an overall ambient but exciting atmosphere. The dinner menu also features some recent changes, including an array of antipasti, pizzas, and pasta dishes. Executive chef Blake Shailes’s vesuviotti, served with pesto Genovese, pine nuts, and Parmesan, is warm and hearty on its own — comfort food that feels familiar and exciting at the same time. But when paired with the team’s recommended Folktale carbonic Sangiovese, the pasta makes for an exceptional meal. The dish is bright and nutty and the wine rounds it out to make each of the pasta’s flavors really shine. 1518 N. Cahuenga Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90028. — Virali Dave, editor

How ‘Nduja Want It? pizza at Ronan on Melrose

The best way to experience Ronan is by dining with a group of four or more carbohydrate lovers. The menu is chock-full of dishes ideal for sharing, offering wood-fired focaccia with all the fixings (chicken liver, cultured butter, burrata), a spicy steak tartare served with tallow toast, and even a French dip calzone stuffed with rare roast beef and accompanied by onion jus and hot mustard. It’s the kind of heartily portioned and boldly flavored food meant to be passed around while sipping something fizzy. While it’s very possible to have a stellar dinner at Ronan without ordering any of the pizzas, it’d be a travesty to do so. If there’s room on the table for one pie, make it the How ‘Nduja Want It? topped with spicy sausage, gorgonzola crema, green onion, and celery. The combination of ingredients surprises and delights with every bite. 7315 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90046. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Pelmeni dumplings from Nawal pop-up at Cafe Caravan in Los Feliz

It’s always nice to see familiar names and faces try something new for a change. Case in point: Nawal, the Syrian backyard pop-up sensation, spent Friday and Saturday night working out of the kitchen of Cafe Caravan in Los Feliz, turning out dishes that had never before appeared on its menu. The foods were simple in explanation but deep and delicious in execution, highlighted by falafel pita sandwiches and a Friday-only pelmeni dumpling option that was warm and satisfying. With nods to the greater Levant region, these lamb and beef dumplings arrived with a deep wrapping and robust, meaty punch, making them unique not only to Nawal’s usual menu but to most other dumplings in Los Angeles. The pop-up’s fans showed up both nights, willing to try new fare from a busy favorite. There’s always something fun about that. 4459 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA. — Farley Elliott, senior editor

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August 21, 2023

Deviled blue crab fritters at Queen St. in Eagle Rock

The folks behind Found Oyster in East Hollywood have another hit on their hands with Queen St., a bustling ode to Charleston, South Carolina. The excitement around the newcomer means tough reservations for now, but there’s plenty of room for walk-ins around the horseshoe-shaped raw bar. Oysters served chilled and on the half-shell are a must to start, along with the expertly fried deviled blue crab fritters. Plumped with plenty of crab meat and textured with cornmeal, the foursome are served piping hot. At the risk of searing one’s tongue at first bite, be sure to dunk the fritters in the accompanying buttermilk ranch. 4701 York Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90042. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Peruvian scallop crudo at Bestia in the Arts District

For someone who is mostly vegetarian and still fairly new to eating any meat or seafood, it’s rare for me to be blown away enough by non-vegetarian dishes to have more than a small taste. The Peruvian scallop crudo at Bestia — served with Meyer lemon cream, rosemary chile oil, diced strawberries, thin bits of basil, and topped with sesame seeds — was one of those exceptions where one bite was not enough. The dish is well-balanced with plenty of freshness, brightness, and creaminess that I needed to have more than one serving to feel like I wasn’t missing out. When my partner and I finished our plate of four quickly, a server shared that a woman nearby had ordered eight for herself. It’s really that good. 2121 E. 7th Place, Los Angeles, CA 90021. — Virali Dave, editor

Seared cured mackerel at Shirubē in Santa Monica

The new Japanese izakaya Shirubē seems to have already captured the Santa Monica crowd with a packed dining room filled by 7 p.m. on a weeknight. Heaping plates of fresh sashimi, fried corn ribs, and mentaiko udon flow out of the open kitchen. Executive chef Kodai Uno’s father Takashi first opened Shirubē in Kyodo, Tokyo in 1978, which gives this Santa Monica izakaya plenty of history and competence behind it. Its location inside the former Musha, a beloved Westside izakaya, should set it up for long-term success given the demand for upscale Japanese bar fare in the area. Every table should order the phenomenal cured mackerel filet (aburi shime saba). Seared tableside with a butane burner, the heady aroma of fish skin fills your table or bar seat. Sliced expertly to allow for gentle cooking on top, the mackerel has a nice sweetness and tanginess in each sliver, accented by a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and pickled ginger in between bites. 424 Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica, CA 90401. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Polpette al sugo in focaccina at Ceci’s Gastronomia in Echo Park

There is something so warming and comforting about eating a big, hearty meal when it rains in LA. The city smells and looks different after a wash, and with greyed-out skies, it’s easy to fool oneself into believing the air temperature is lower than it actually is. A perfect post-rain bite is the polpette al sugo sandwich from Ceci’s Gastronomia on Sunset in Silver Lake. The shoebox space isn’t much for on-site dining in the wet weather, but with a sunnier forecast coming and scattering clouds in the sky already, it’s possible to enjoy this meatball-stuffed focaccia sandwich with ease. It’s a hefty beast, so don’t be afraid to share with a friend — that way it’s also possible to get some of the must-order suppli as well. 2813 W. Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90026. — Farley Elliott, senior editor

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August 14, 2023

Tuna crudo and vermouth at Barra Santos in Cypress Park

As the evening sun stretches on and the streets begin to cool, Los Angeles comes alive. The early evening snack-meal-hangout scene in this city is unrivaled, spread across happy hours, after-work cocktail spots, and taco stands. And in the case of Cypress Park, vermouth and crudo bars at the Portuguese-influenced Barra Santos. Not far away, Capri Club has been getting all of the attention (rightfully so) for its Italian menu of aperitifs and snacks, but the real in-the-know Eastsiders are hovering over cafe tables in Cypress Park, downing draft vermouth blanco, nibbling on olives, and pulling up heavy slices of tuna crudo with pickled vegetables and lots of citrus. It’s an ideal late-day snack, the kind of dish that feels fresh and timeless. It’s easy to spend an eyebrow-raising amount of time with friends here, with golden hour rays coming down against the chatter and murmur of the sidewalk crowd. This is the kind of place that LA does very, very well. 1215 Cypress Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90065. — Farley Elliott, senior editor

Coca Idiazábal at San Laurel in Downtown

Whether seated on the patio or in the main dining room, San Laurel on the 10th floor of Conrad Los Angeles is a fantastic place to spend an evening. This time of year, it’s hard to beat unfettered views of the Walt Disney Concert Hall coupled with warm breezes and a chilled milk punch in hand. Some of the strongest dishes on chef José Andrés’s Spain-meets-California menu are the shareable small plates, like the hiramasa crudo with a buttermilk leche de tigre, and the gazpacho consommé with sea urchin, scallop, and caviar. Best of all is the coca Idiazábal, a deceptively simple riff on cheese and crackers. While the olive oil-enriched base was light and crisp, the finely grated and generous sheep’s milk cheese added depth. The quince paste slathered in between added an unexpected but wholly welcomed sweetness. 100 S. Grand Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90012. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Hot dogs at Cupid’s Hot Dogs in Winnetka

The hot dog’s biggest PR month is July, but nostalgic stands like Cupid’s Hot Dogs in Winnetka make a good case for them even in hotter, sleepier months like August that don’t have pyrotechnic fanfare. At Cupid’s, a small chain with four locations dotting the Southland, the hot dogs are simple and perfect: you can hear the snap of the Vienna all-beef frank, feel the soft bite of the to-the-minute steamed bun, and taste each individual fleck of celery salt on the architecturally assembled Chicago dog. That dog, piled with the traditional neon relish, sport peppers, a sliced pickle, mustard, and onion, is euphoric, but equally satisfying to me was the classic Cupid dog with chili, mustard, and onions (I added cheese for an additional 75 cents). There’s no grit or muddiness to the chili’s texture, and the shredded cheese plays well with earthy brown mustard and the sharp tang of chopped onions. Not only the best of the week but maybe the best hot dog I’ve had all summer. 20030 Vanowen Street, Winnetka, CA 91306. — Nicole Adlman, cities manager

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August 7, 2023

Spinach vadouvan at Camphor in the Arts District

True to its name, the spinach vadouvan (named for a French spice mix) is loaded with a blend of warm and smoky spices. The dish may appear simple, especially when compared with some of Camphor’s other offerings, but is rich and complex. The spinach is soft, and there’s plenty of creaminess to add to the texture. There’s also a good amount of garam masala — a blend of warming spices whose recipe can change drastically from one restaurant and home to the next — which is balanced and mouthwatering, noticeable in every bite without being overpowering. The dish is meant to accompany the main courses and goes incredibly well with the mushroom rice. 923 E. Third Street #109, Los Angeles, CA 90013. — Virali Dave, editor

Lao sausages at Yum Sະlut in Chinatown

There are many dishes to adore at Yum Sະlut, the Lao food pop-up in Chinatown at Lokel’s Only, but the one that I can’t stop thinking about is the sausages. The hand-made links are filled with all that’s good including coarsely ground pork, makrut lime leaves, lemongrass, shallots, chiles, and garlic. Chef and owner Tharathip Soulisak isn’t shy about the amount of pork fat he adds for oomph and flavor. The thick tomato chutney served alongside ought to be swiped atop every taut and meaty bite. To round out one’s meal, tack on an order of khao soi noodles, herb-flecked catfish wraps, and any one of the coconut milk-spiked desserts on hand. 635 N. Broadway, Los Angeles, CA 90012. —Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Black Hawk Farms flat iron steak at Bourbon Steak in Glendale

With its mix of supreme wagyu marbling and beefy, ultra-American Angus flavor, Bourbon Steak’s specialty flat iron steak from Black Hawk Farms out of Kentucky may just be one of the best dollar-for-dollar steaks available in Los Angeles. That’s not to say the cut is cheap or massive. This steak manages to feel rich and satisfying without too much heft at all, meaning it’s possible to enjoy the actual accompaniments and starters from chef Gabriel Pulido in addition to all that red meat. The native Angeleno is turning out quality steakhouse fare without sacrificing the flavors of his hometown, meaning the sweet corn cappelletti is going to come with a koji truffle cream, and the wagyu tartare will have some kimchi in it. The steak is the star, to be sure, but so is Pulido and the attentive staff overseeing one of the better steakhouse options northeast of Downtown. 237 S. Brand Boulevard, Glendale, CA 91210. — Farley Elliott, senior editor

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July 31, 2023

You po noodles at Chong Qing Special Noodles in San Gabriel

Sichuanese strands of all stripes are the specialty at Chong Qing Special Noodles in San Gabriel. The signature and namesake bowl brings together a tongue-numbing mix of ground meat, blanched bok choy, a fried egg, and bouncy noodles in a highly slurpable broth, while the crowd-favorite dan dan mian coats every surface in sesame, nutty goodness. Best of all are the you po noodles, which are hidden under the hand-made noodles section of the menu. Every bite delivers a garlicky punch via wide, thick, and sturdy strands. 708 E. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel, CA 91776. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Wagyu shawarma at Avi Cue in Studio City

Aviad Yalin is a man of many talents and many smiles. The understated, perpetually happy Israeli chef first garnered LA looks with his high-wire home grilling act, serving seared steaks and Middle East staples to friends and insiders from his backyard in the Valley during the pandemic. Now Yalin can be found working the electric shaver at Avi Cue, his namesake shawarma-and-more pop-up in Studio City that may just be going permanent, if the lines keep up. Yalin is serving up stuffed pitas of rich shawarma, handmade on a large vertical spit using wagyu beef strips, from the converted former Tacos 1986 space (with a helping hand from those owners) at 11288 Ventura Boulevard, and so far it’s been one day of sellout after another. There are other hits that turn heads too, like the thin, griddled ground beef arayes, but the star is the shawarma, so that’s where the smiling Yalin spends most of his time. He’s right up front from noon to 5 p.m. daily, turning out what may be the best new bite in all of the San Fernando Valley this year — and he’s more than happy to be doing it. 11288 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City, CA 91604. — Farley Elliott, senior editor

Pink cake doughnut with sprinkles at Donut Star in Glassell Park

Sometimes the best packages come in small sizes. I went camping with friends over the weekend and upon returning home drove straight to my local doughnut shop: Donut Star. The selections were sparse on a Sunday afternoon, just a few frosted cake doughnuts and none of my usual picks: buttermilk bars and traditional glazed. I selected the frosted cake and never looked back. The compact, bright pink gift leavened with baking soda and baking powder boasted a pillowy bite that wasn’t overwhelmingly sweet. And in that moment, it turned out to be the perfect choice. 4102 Verdugo Road, Los Angeles, CA, 90065. — Mona Holmes, reporter

Cucumber and melon salad at Cork Dork in Thousand Oaks

The Conejo Valley is full of dining gems, and Thousand Oak’s Cork Dork is one of the best, serving a range of wines along with delicious, seasonal dishes like pasta, branzino, short ribs, and more. The vegetable dishes especially shine including a cucumber and melon salad with sweet cantaloupe, cherry tomatoes, farro, feta, and plenty of herbs and citrus. It’s refreshing and satisfying and tastes even better than the succulent grilled peach salad. 1125 Lindero Canyon Road, Thousand Oaks, CA 91362. — Virali Dave, editor

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July 24, 2023

Thịt nướng cuốn at Bánh Cuốn Hương Bắc in South El Monte

The busy strip of Garvey Avenue surrounding Rosemead Boulevard in South El Monte is dotted with some of the best Vietnamese restaurants in Los Angeles. Veggie Life always delivers a satisfying plant-based meal, while Kim Hoa Hue is a long-time favorite for Central Vietnamese cooking (I think about its green papaya salad with livers and the baby clam rice a lot). The newest addition to the neighborhood is Bánh Cuốn Hương Bắc, a narrow restaurant run by a wife and husband team. The succinct menu of mostly Northern dishes is easy to navigate; the noodle soups and namesake steamed rice rolls appear on nearly every table. Find the thịt nướng cuốn tucked under the appetizer section. The simple starter combines the restaurant’s made-to-order crepes with grilled marinated pork. Dunked in fish sauce, the smoky parcel whets one’s appetite just right. 9442 Garvey Avenue, South El Monte, CA 91733. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Mandu sampler at Chang Hwa Dang in Koreatown

In the pantheon of Koreatown’s dumpling restaurants, Chang Hwa Dang (CHD) probably isn’t at the top, but that doesn’t mean there isn’t a reason to visit. The dumplings at CHD veer more modern and fun instead of strictly traditional, something my Filipino in-laws appreciated on a recent visit. The mixed mandu tray features galbi, kimchi, pork, jalapeno, and shrimp, all gorgeously fried to a medium-golden brown. Showing off thinner-than-normal wrappers, the plump shrimp and the jalapeno mandu surprised me the most, with the galbi one coming in third. The traditional kimchi and pork dumplings were tasty too. My only wish was for a better sauce instead of the pre-packed ones in disposable containers. I could see this mandu sampler and maybe one other plate of dumplings working as a quick K-Town lunch the next time I’m in the area. 3377 Wilshire Boulevard Suite 104, Los Angeles, CA 90010 — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Tomato and seasonal fruit salad at Good Clean Fun in Downtown

Good Clean Fun serves an incredible natural wine flight featuring five generous pours for $15 every Wednesday evening. The vibe is less Downtown LA happy hour and more house party, where the hosts are warm and excited to share their favorite bites and drinks and happen to be incredibly knowledgeable about their curated selection of wines. The food is great too, and the tomato and seasonal fruit salad comes with burrata, spicy lemon-lime honey, almonds, mint, and Thai basil, with juicy peaches and tomatoes as stars of the plate. It’s bright and balanced, a celebration of the season. 868 S. Olive Street, Los Angeles, CA 90014. — Virali Dave, editor

Tandoori butternut squash at Baar Baar in Downtown

If dining at Baar Baar, choose a seat that has the best vantage point. The crowd here — at least on a Saturday night — is visually stunning and surprisingly diverse for fine dining. Whether seated near the gorgeous Bollywood-esque mural or the lively bar, Baar Baar is a feast for the eyes. It’s also the place where chef Sujan Sarkar — one of India’s most respected chefs — is making modern Indian dishes that are equally beautiful and inventive. These dishes will sound familiar to most who love South Asian fare, but Sarkar’s vegetables are especially prized. I love watching chefs create miracles with fresh produce, and the tandoori butternut squash hits that very note. Sakar cut a sizeable butternut squash into a perfect half-inch disk, roasted it in a tandoor oven, and placed it over flavorful hichdi with millet, dal, asparagus, and multigrain papad (crisps). There’s proper but not overwhelming heat that emanates from the dish, one that skilled chefs know how to prepare. If that’s not appealing, try the fava and corn kofta over spinach and Swiss chard saag paneer with one of the brightly colored cocktails. 705 W. Ninth Street, Los Angeles, CA 90017. — Mona Holmes, reporter

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July 17, 2023

Wild-caught fish tacos at Angry Egret Dinette in Chinatown

I’m not a fish taco expert by any means, but I know enough to work out that I should order as many as I can when in Los Angeles. The wild-caught fish taco at Angry Egret Dinette wasn’t on my Google Maps radar, but a friend knew me well enough to take me here for a quick bite, which is all we could squeeze in with a packed itinerary. Still, those 30 minutes were made memorable by this number, with a perfectly batter-fried and salted rockfish at the center. Played against a duo of aiolis — mustard habanero and chipotle — and the crunch of cabbage, all wrapped in a flour tortilla, with bursts of acid from a squeeze of lime. It felt like a flawless, breezy, summertime Los Angeles moment in Chinatown, made complete with a michelada. 970 N. Broadway STE 114, Los Angeles, CA 90012 — Dianne de Guzman, Eater SF deputy editor

Promenade salad at Trattoria Farfalla in Westlake Village

With locations in Los Feliz and Westlake Village, Trattoria Farfalla serves up Italian classics like pasta fagioli, eggplant Parmesan, and a range of pastas and pizzas (including some gluten-free options). It may sound simple, but locals appreciate Farfalla for its high-quality ingredients, excellent service, and communal feel. Menus have some variation from one location to the next, and in Westlake Village, Farfalla is also open for lunch. Here, locals know to grab a seat at the bar or out on the airy back patio. Meals kick off with a mixed vegetable tapenade served with bread, which makes an excellent accompaniment to one of Farfalla’s salads. The Promenade salad, available only in Westlake Village and named after the area’s Promenade retail center, comes with chopped romaine, tomatoes, cannellini beans, onions, farro, crispy polenta, and plenty of mozzarella cheese. It’s hearty and balanced and makes for a great midday break. 160 Promenade Way, Westlake Village, CA 91362. — Virali Dave, editor

Orange blossom fougassette at Oh La La in Pasadena

There are many eye-catching pastries and breads lining the glass case at the newly opened Oh La La bakery in Pasadena. It’s hard to resist the burnished and flakey croissants, which come filled with ham and cheese, Nutella, and chocolate batons; the generously portioned cookies and brownies make for a delightful afternoon pick-me-up; and the sourdough loaves are worth snagging for later. With so many choices available, it can be easy to miss the humble orange blossom fougassette. A signature offering from Boulangerie Veziano in Antibes, France, the fougassette delivers a slice of the French Riviera in Pasadena with its distinct floral essence and plush interior. Enjoy it warm (or reheated) in the oven with some salted butter. 921 East Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91106. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Lobster agnolotti at Knife Modern Steak in Dana Point

I had high hopes for Knife Modern Steak from chef John Tesar, known for his aggressively dry-aged steaks and big Texas flavors. Tesar’s seafood-centric Outer Reef was replaced a few months ago by a western outpost of his Knife steakhouse, with “Modern Steak” added to prevent confusion from Orange County’s Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant Knife Pleat (that’s my guess, anyway). Chalk it up to switchover jitters but the 120-day dry-aged ribeye was one of the most overcooked steaks I’ve ever had (basically well-done instead of the requested medium rare, which the server even acknowledged.) But I almost didn’t mind because the lobster agnolotti, which came just before the steak, was that delicious. Swimming in a rich buttery sauce that was almost like a bisque, the tender pasta had a good bite and was filled with enough lobster to make anyone blush. The server said the dish came with about six agnolotti, but I counted closer to 10, which makes it even better for sharing. Regardless of the highs and lows, Knife Modern Steak’s best asset, its pristine ocean views from high up the hill in Dana Point, remains absolutely stunning in the hours-long sunset of the mid-summer. 25135 Park Lantern, Dana Point, CA 92629. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Quesaburger at SolRad in Montebello

It’s always a joy to watch a local pop-up make the move to a permanent space, especially one with unique flair, fresh flavors, and plenty of style like SolRad. Co-founder Teo Montoya describes his cooking style as Mexican Americana and serves his food at the BLVD MRKT food hall. The menu has a wonderful wedge salad with house-made jalapeno ranch dressing and pasilla beer-battered onion rings. Montoya’s breakfast burritos go beyond the traditional by incorporating both beans and potatoes. But let’s talk about the quesaburger, a welcome bite and 100 percent LA with a smashed beef patty, Tecate braised onions, griddled cheese, smoky queso, pickled jalapenos, and a proprietary spread on a sesame bun — those crispy cheese bits push this burger into iconic territory. Order a tray of goods, get a beer at the adjacent Alchemy Craft, sit down in the covered courtyard, and take in every bite. 520 Whittier Boulevard, Montebello, CA, 90640. — Mona Holmes, reporter

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July 10, 2023

Vegetarian sandwich with onion rings at the Red Kettle in Idyllwild

Originally built in the early 1920s as an ice cream and soda shop, the Red Kettle is one of the oldest buildings in Idyllwild. Today, locals and tourists can expect diner fare, like breakfast combo plates, various omelets, salads, and sandwiches. As expected for a diner, it’s a casual spot, made all the more comfortable due to its warm and inviting staff. During a weekend trip, I ordered the vegetarian sandwich: cream cheese, avocado, sliced tomato, sprouts, and mayonnaise on rye, served alongside perfectly crispy, crunchy, and succulent onion rings. It’s a simple yet satisfying meal worth eating under the red umbrellas on the back patio for prime people-watching. It’s also great before a midday hike or a shopping excursion around the town center. 54220 N. Circle Drive, Idyllwild, CA 92549. — Virali Dave, editor

Hon masu (sea trout) from Sushi Sonagi in Gardena

Sushi Sonagi from chef Daniel Son finally opened in Gardena last weekend after over two months of delays. The 20-course omakase is already astonishing, showing Son’s attention to detail coupled with his friendly persona. While so many of the nigiri courses wowed us, the hon masu stood out for its cheeky innovation of toasted sesame seeds, which added a pleasant crunch and nuttiness. The fish itself, a gently smoky Hokkaido sea trout, featured a luscious, fatty texture contrasted with the gentle bite of shiroita konbu sliver placed on top. Son uses two types of seasoned shari, or sushi rice, for his nigiri, and this one featured his more aggressive vinegar-and-salt seasoning that played well to this rich cut. Son’s depth and range were apparent from the first bites of dry-aged isaki (three-lined grunt) to the 17-day-aged Hawaiian big-eye tuna maguro zuke. Unfortunately, spots have been claimed for the rest of July; reservations will come through Tock going forward. It’s hard to think of a better omakase in the entire city of Los Angeles right now — it’s simply that good. 1425 Artesia Boulevard, Unit 27, Gardena, CA 90248. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Pig’s ears at Kato in Downtown

It takes guts to serve guts in a fine dining setting. And now that chef Jon Yao is leaning into Taiwanese and Chinese culinary traditions at Kato, expect to find more offals on the menu, like these stellar pigs ears. The second dish served in the 10-course tasting menu, the pig's ears — stratified with cartilage, skin, and tendon — are accompanied by artichoke, celtuce, and a smattering of fresh herbs and flowers. The dish’s flavors and textures are wholly familiar, while the presentation and accouterments heighten the visual appeal. It’s about time that lesser-appreciated cuts share the limelight with truffles, wagyu, and caviar because they’re just as or oftentimes even more delicious. 777 S. Alameda Street, Building 1, Suite 114, Los Angeles, CA 90021. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Amatriciana baked eggs at Bacetti in Echo Park

Is anyone else a little bored by brunch these days? It seems like there’s little difference from one menu to another. My brunch at Bacetti stood out even though it’s tucked away from the busyness of Sunset Boulevard in Echo Park. Chef Joe Stovall produces some stunning daytime dishes, including the amatriciana baked eggs. I made the wrong assumption thinking this was a standard shakshuka. Instead, the beautifully cooked eggs arrived in an uncomplicated tomato sauce with cannellini beans, pecorino Romano, guanciale, and toasted bread for dipping. It made my morning. Also, Bacetti’s team somehow cracked the code on noise, no one has to yell over the din of diners or music from the PA, which played the Clash, Cautious Clay, and Billy Ocean. 1509 Echo Park Avenue, Echo Park, CA. — Mona Holmes, reporter

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July 5, 2023

Smash burger and gem salad at the Heyday in Palm Springs

Yes, it’s blazing hot in Palm Springs right now. But it’s such a darling less-than-two-hour getaway with sparkling pools, cocktail bars, and dining options that keep expanding. The Heyday is on the quieter side of Palm Springs, just across the street from Arrive Palm Springs hotel and the astonishingly good Cartel Coffee. It’s the creation of Brad and Crystal Reihl, who initially found an enthusiastic following for their smash burgers with friends and family, then as a Coachella Valley pop-up before opening in the local Hilton. The couple found an ideal space to throw down classic cocktails alongside restored red leather booths and wood paneling while serving a simple but great menu. The Heyday prepares smash burgers with beef and house-made vegan/vegetarian patties, fried chicken sandwiches, wings, fries, and a hefty gem salad with lemon, toasted panko breadcrumbs, and the ranch dressing of your dreams. And if you haven’t had a martini with a burger by now, you absolutely should. 550 North Palm Canyon Drive, Palm Springs, CA 92262. — Mona Holmes, reporter

Ankake agedashi tofu at Toku Unagi & Sushi in West Hollywood

The star of Toku Unagi & Sushi in West Hollywood is the imported Japanese eel. Prepared in myriad ways, the unagi shines whether grilled, broiled and glazed with sweetened soy, or studded in a delicate chawanmushi. Anyone who dines here ought to order one or many of the eel-centered dishes, but not overlook the ankake agedashi tofu. The lightly battered and deep-fried silken tofu and bonito wisps are a familiar sight, but the version here brings in a crisp-tender cast of mushrooms, snap peas, lotus roots, carrots, and thickened dashi sauce. The comforting package makes for an excellent starter before the parade of unagi. 1106 N. La Cienega Boulevard #201, West Hollywood, CA 90069. — Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Bánh mì đặc biệt at Hue Thai in Rosemead

The tiny, sleepy strip mall that holds Hue Thai Bakery & Deli could be the most assuming culinary gem in Los Angeles. I stopped by a few days ago to try this city-best bánh mì đặc biệt, at least according to my colleague Cathy Chaplin, who rounded up her favorite Vietnamese sandwiches in LA. It’s hard to argue with this pick given its utter simplicity, stellar balance, and superb value. Ordered on the bakery’s own round baguette, the bread retains a crispness without the sharp edges that would cut one’s mouth. Each bite exudes the varied textures of crisp herbs, spicy jalapeño slivers, crunchy pickled vegetables, meaty cold cuts, and creamy spreads of pate and mayonnaise. What I loved was the restraint, the small 2.5-inch diameter that made the sandwich filling but not overwhelming. At $6.25 each (note: cash only), it’s easily one of the best under $10 things to eat in the SGV. 8968 Garvey Avenue, Rosemead, CA, 91770. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Whipped eggplant at Casaléna in Woodland Hills

Opened late last month, Casaléna is Woodland Hills’ newest dining destination spanning five separate dining areas and serving an impressive array of drinks and bites. While there’s plenty to try, including pizzas, pastas, and various large plates, the starters are a true highlight. I recently tried the whipped eggplant with pickled red pepper, olive oil, and a toasted baguette; blistered snap peas with tomato agrodolce, preserved lemon, pickled red onions, marcona almonds, and mint; and ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms served alongside tomato sauce. Paired with a well-made cocktail (torn between my love for Negronis and disinterest in Negronis sbaggliato, I tried the Negroni sbaggliato bianco, and it did not disappoint), the three dishes were an incredible start to the meal, a wonderful transition out of the work day and into a relaxing evening in the garden. While all three were winners, the whipped eggplant might’ve been the best — a smooth, hearty, accompaniment to perfectly toasted bread that won’t scratch the roof of your mouth. 22160 Ventura Boulevard, Woodland Hills, CA 91364. — Virali Dave, editor