Dave Beran’s Santa Monica French restaurant has developed into one of the Westside’s most impressive fancy restaurants, with stellar renditions of Parisian bistro dishes with a California mentality. Though Beran’s ambitious tasting menu restaurant Dialogue had to close due to the pandemic, the team’s efforts at Pasjoli show an extra level of creativity and execution, from gorgeous chicken liver-stuffed brioche to dry-aged ribeye with roasted fingerling potatoes. —Matthew Kang

Evan Funke’s temple to pasta remains one of the most compelling places for upscale Italian food in Los Angeles. The elegant dining room feels like a stylish nonna’s home while the cuisine ranges various regions of Italy, from the buttery herb-tinted gamberi in bagnetto verde to the blistered pizzas to the crisp ricotta-filled squash blossoms. Of course, the fresh pasta dishes, produced almost exclusively by hand (fatto a mano), are must orders. —Matthew Kang

It’s always a bustling dinner party at Anajak Thai, the coolest restaurant in Sherman Oaks. And better still, there’s something for everyone from the Thai food classicists to the hip new kids looking to take down bottles of natural wine and party in the back alley for Thai taco Tuesday. Stop in for one-off chef collaborations and a party, or grab some take out on the way home. —Farley Elliott

It’s been over a decade since chefs Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama first opened two-Michelin star N/naka on the corner of Overland and Lawler in the Palms neighborhood of Los Angeles. Since then, the kaiseki restaurant has entranced critics and diners alike with its contemporary interpretation of a centuries-old, multicourse Japanese tradition. The 13-course modern kaiseki is priced at $310 per person. The menu changes with the seasons, along with the chef’s whims, while the flow of the meal adheres to Japanese traditions. Reservations are released a month in advance via Tock, so persevere and plan accordingly. —Cathy Chaplin

Redondo Beach’s Sushi Chitose remains one of the most unsung sushi spots in town. serving a stellar omakase for under $70 a person from chef Hirofumi Sakamoto. With a traditional, very lived in, dining room but friendly service, this is arguably the best bang for your sushi buck in LA. —Matthew Kang

There are many terrific restaurants lining Fairfax Avenue in Little Ethiopia, but Rosalind’s is the one that started it all. Take owner Fekere Gebre-Mariam’s advice and order the iconic doro wat — a soul-satisfying, deeply ruddy stew fortified with ground chiles and spiked with warming spices. This chicken-and-egg staple has been on the menu since day one and is even considered the national dish of Ethiopia. —Cathy Chaplin

Prepare wisely before heading to Country Style Jamaican in Inglewood. It’s on a busy stretch of La Brea and takeout or delivery-only. The gruff staff are busy. They don’t have time to be polite, as they’re in the back meeting the high demand of loyal customers who order the brown stew chicken, patties, ackee, saltfish, and of the always-popular jerk chicken. Not to be missed is the deep fried red snapper escovitch over peas and rice, vegetables, and a side of plantains that should be washed down with Ting. Eat it in the car for best, and hot, results. —Mona Holmes

For color and attitude, richness and smiles, it’s all about Horses on Sunset in Hollywood. This is where the New York Times says diners should go; where young LA eaters angle in for bar seats; where Jay-Z and Beyonce gather looks from a bright yellow booth. Horses is the kind of restaurant that will make even jaded Angelenos believe in the power of restaurants again, from the birthday dessert flourishes to the subtle ways that servers move about the room, quiet forces amid the chaos. Be sure to order the fig-tinged Horses vesper from the bar, and of course the roast chicken.  —Farley Elliott

When Walter and Margarita Manzke took over the iconic Campanile space, they knew the stakes were high. And who in LA would have thought they would’ve succeeded this much, offering a breakfast-to-dinner menu with a French point of view? Throw in some pockets of new American and Asian influences, and the bill of fare will likely appeal to everyone. The desserts, breads, and pastries by Margarita are as good as one can expect, while the charcuterie board is sure to stun anyone. —Matthew Kang

Walk into Musso & Frank Grill and one is immediately transported to the club entry scene from Goodfellas. Diners veer through the parking lot and entry, maze of stairs, loud kitchen, and directly into the retro dining room. Jacketed waiters and bartenders are impossibly busy and unfazed by tourists or celebrities. Sure, Musso & Frank is dated, some of the wallpaper is peeling, and the menu hasn’t changed much over the decades, but that’s part of the 103-year-old restaurant’s charm. Sit at the bar and watch the gentlemen prepare stirred-only martinis. In the dining room, order a ribeye, prime rib au jus, or the lobster thermidor with a bottle from Musso’s extensive wine list. Take a look at the server’s and bartender’s jackets. The cuffs adorn embroidered stars indicating the number of years each has worked at the restaurant. —Mona Holmes

South LA’s iconic counter service hot dog spot Earle’s founded by Duane and Cary Earle endures because of its deep connection to the neighborhood and approachable menu of chili dogs, burgers, and more, with plenty of veggie and other ingredient options. The prices are fast food-level, but the service, attention to detail, and ingredients are premium, which is why the place remains beloved after more than three decades. —Matthew Kang

There’s a reason why the 17-year-old Providence is sold out almost every night. Chef Michael Cimarusti and partner Donato Poto took the care and time to assemble a crew that executes the best tasting menus in Los Angeles. If the timing is right, Cimarusti might offer a glass from his private whiskey collection, recently procured during a recent trip to Kentucky. But the emphasis here is on the seafood, a rotating menu with eight courses. The catch is as fresh as it gets, with art form preparation, and an experienced server who explains the process. In all, Providence is the definition of fine dining by a team who cares. —Mona Holmes

Bong Joon Ho made it a point to celebrate here after winning Best Picture for Parasite. The Koreatown restaurant specializes in ganjang gejang — raw marinated flower crab — which tastes like the pinnacle of Korean cuisine with its rich, slightly fermented umami and buttery sweetness (especially over warm rice). Get the spicy braised black cod and braised short ribs for the complete experience. —Matthew Kang

Thai Town’s enduring all-day and late night destination might have trimmed its hours (it used to serve until well past 2 a.m.), Ruen Pair has come out of the most challenging parts of the pandemic with a remarkably comforting array of shareable Thai Chinese classics, from stewed pork leg or roasted duck over rice, crispy pork belly with morning glory, and, of course, the signature omelet laced with salty turnip strips. Service now runs from 4 p.m. to just past 10:30 p.m., making it more of a dinner spot that can accommodate bigger parties up to 10 people. —Matthew Kang

Open since 1982, Marouch is an LA staple. Starting as a small shawarma wrap restaurant, it evolved into one of the city’s most consistent Armenian-Lebanese spots. Nestled into an East Hollywood strip mall, it’s easy to settle into one of the tables and order lamb, luleh, or chicken kebabs. Every recipe has a family origin, especially the hummus and baba ghanoush that surpasses many of its competitors. The only changes are the new owners who bought the place three years ago, and the sliding glass window that opens an entire wall to face Santa Monica Boulevard. —Mona Holmes

This prototypical premium Korean barbecue restaurant tucked into a strip mall plays all the right parts: heaping platters of tender, richly marbled beef, well-executed banchan, and attentive service. While the restaurant’s interior isn’t modern or sharply designed, by any means, that might be exactly what longtime KBBQ fans don’t want from Soowon, with its worn-in seating and smoky environs. Soowon Galbi doesn’t get the love of its peers like Park’s, Chosun, or even Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong or Quarters, but its reliability and consistency are proof that not everything needs to be shiny to be good. —Matthew Kang

Yes, the No. 19 pastrami sandwich is an amazing sandwich, but the pure pastrami on house-baked rye is simplicity at its best. There's a reason why people make pilgrimages to try this place’s pastrami and even corned beef: There is no better version anywhere in town. Pro tip: Try the No. 44, served on griddled rye bread with hand-sliced pastrami, nippy cheese, and sauerkraut, for a decadent take on a Reuben sandwich. And don't skip the rest of the classic Jewish deli menu — it's all very well executed in one of the best daytime dining rooms in town. —Matthew Kang

My Dung (pronounced me yoong), a teeny tiny market slash sandwich shop on Ord Street, doesn’t offer much in the way of ambiance, but that matters little with one bite of its fantastic banh mi. Every sandwich is made fresh to order on a baguette that’s airy yet substantial and toasted to a warm and inviting crisp. It’s hard to go wrong with any of the stuffings, from simple pate to shredded chicken to the house special with cold cuts and head cheese. The next time you’re in the neighborhood and hunger pangs hit, head to the back of My Dung’s cramped quarters, fork over four dollars, and be prepared for one of the greatest sandwiches in town. —Cathy Chaplin

Rashida Holmes’ tribute to Caribbean food, inspired by her mother Joy Clarke-Holmes, has wowed LA diners with incredible red pepper goat and chicken curry rotis, wonderfully crisp cod cakes, hearty oxtail-stuffed patties, and saucy, puffy doubles. Bridgetown pops up on weekends in Arts District and on Sundays at Smorgasburg. —Matthew Kang (Note: Eater LA reporter Mona Holmes is related to Rashida Holmes and was not involved in the writing of this entry)

Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera’s LA restaurant didn’t quite land with the fanfare of his New York City restaurant Cosme, with its similarities of a la carte offerings inspired by his upscale approach to modern Mexican cuisine. But Damian has found a stride by resonating with Los Angeles flavors and staying the course with stellar service, a restrained dining room and outdoor patio, as well as top notch execution. —Matthew Kang

Though it remained mostly closed during the pandemic, Majordomo is now fully back under the guidance of chef Jude Parra-Sickels, who has been leading the kitchen since its opening. With big tableside smoked meats like pork shoulder “bossam” and plate short ribs, plus all of the classic starters of stuffed jalapenos and bing bread, Majordomo remains one of LA’s most reliable and well-executed modern Asian restaurants. —Matthew Kang

Longtime LA operation Moo’s Craft Barbecue found a permanent home in Lincoln Heights and has quickly established itself as one of the top Texas-style barbecues in the city. Founders Andrew and Michelle Muñoz have done a great job of capturing the spirit of Austin with a walk-up counter, wide list of craft beers, and well-executed array of smoked meats with sides. Anyone who says LA doesn’t have good barbecue will be pretty quiet after taking a few bites at Moo’s. —Matthew Kang

Otomisan, a family-run restaurant serving homey Japanese comforts and sushi, is a reminder that Boyle Heights was an enclave for Japanese immigrants years ago, mostly due to its proximity to Little Tokyo. The nearly 70-year-old restaurant doesn’t miss a beat after all these years, so snag a seat at the well-worn stools lining the front counter or tuck into a red booth that lines the opposite wall. From spicy tuna rice balls to salmon skin sushi, order whatever sounds good on the reasonably priced menu. —Cathy Chaplin

As Mexican bakeries go, Delicias Bakery and Some is an LA gem. Operating since 1990, the Delicias produces beautiful pan dulce, egg breads, empanadas, puerquitos, conchas, or the donut-like novias. There’s also an entire section dedicated to plant-based pan dulce. Everything at this family-run business is made on-site, where lunch, sandwiches, salads, coffee, or a customized fresh juice is entirely possible in a low-key, unfussy setting in Highland Park. —Mona Holmes