On the surface, Tulsi is a nondescript fast-casual Indian spot, devoid of the large crowds or fanciful flair (and prices) of a more upscale place. But a closer look will reveal a menu with more range and better execution than most places can claim to have. That’s the beauty of Tulsi, where most dishes are under $10 and the menu’s worth a thousand words. The menu — which represents Southern, Northern, and Western India and has arguably the best Gujarati food in the San Fernando Valley, if not all of Los Angeles, has to offer — speaks volumes if you know how to listen. The team works with chefs actually from those areas in India to ensure that the dishes taste like distinct and accurate representations of the areas they originate from. Try the undhiyu, a 10-vegetable medley with sweet potatoes, potatoes, eggplant, yam, coconut, and more. It’s a Gujarati staple that is at once bitter, sweet, salty, and savory, and it’s not easily found in LA.—Virali Dave, editor

Peter Lai, the acclaimed chef at Embassy Kitchen in San Gabriel, took over the stoves at Colette in Pasadena in November 2022 and serves some of the most innovative and intricate Cantonese-influenced cooking in Los Angeles. Though the restaurant’s decor hasn’t changed much since the kitchen switch, the menu is all-new and something worth gathering around the lazy susan for. Many of the restaurant’s signature dishes including the stir-fried lobster sticky rice and crispy-stuffed chicken require advance notice, so call to reserve ahead to avoid any disappointment at the table. Menu standbys like the classic beef chow fun, cola-glazed chicken wings, and all-day dim sum are just as enticing. – Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

The feeling of a bustling dinner party persists nightly at Anajak Thai in its intimate, laid-back dining room lined with bottles of natural European wines. The room brims with the aromas of expertly crafted Thai food from Justin Pichetrungsi and his family, which can be ordered a la carte or in a special tasting menu format (which is nearly impossible to book). Still, there’s something for everyone, from classic pad Thai and sticky fried wings to its inventive Thai Taco Tuesdays, which take over the next-door alley and back parking lot for a natural wine bacchanal. —Farley Elliott, senior editor

A slice of Hong Kong nestled into the San Gabriel Valley, Tam’s does all-day favorites from kaya toast and pineapple buns served with Hong Kong milk tea or coffee in the morning, to stir-fried noodles, wonton soup, and rice rolls for lunch. The Cantonese food continues into the evening with deep-fried pork chops with honey garlic glaze, curried brisket bowls, or peppered wok-fried fish filets.—Matthew Kang, lead editor

Ruen Pair’s bold spicing, fast service, and good value offer wide appeal across the board. A papaya salad with raw crab legs makes for an exciting starter with its pleasant snap and well-balanced lime and fish sauce vinaigrette. The roasted duck red curry with pineapples, tomatoes, and loads of fresh Thai basil teeters deliciously between spicy and creamy. Don’t hesitate to order the ever-popular pad Thai, which is executed with funk and precision. —Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Since opening in 2019, Yang’s Kitchen has worn several hats. While the restaurant’s initial Taiwanese comfort food menu was a hit with diners and critics, the labor- and cost-intensive dishes were unsustainable in the long run. The restaurant’s reinvention as a casual daytime spot with Asian-inflected fare was widely embraced, as was the transition to an additional dinner service offering playful riffs on Chinese classics. With every iteration, Yang’s Kitchen has maintained its commitment to impeccable ingredient sourcing and providing living wages for its workers. For those dining at the Alhambra destination for brunch or lunch, the plate-sized pancake made with blue cornmeal and mochiko flour makes for an awesomely chewy short stack. The dish to get on the dinner menu is the chile butter-glazed Hainanese fish rice made with dry-aged barramundi and served with chicken fat rice, ginger-scallion sauce, and pickled cucumbers. –Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Open since 1982, Marouch is an LA staple. Starting as a small shawarma wrap restaurant, it evolved into one of the city’s most consistent Armenian Lebanese spots, nestled into an East Hollywood strip mall. It’s easy to settle into one of the tables and order lamb, luleh, or chicken kebabs. Every recipe has a family origin, including the hummus and baba ghanoush, which surpass many of their competitors’ versions. The only changes are the new owners, who bought the place a few years back, and the sliding glass window that opens an entire wall to face Santa Monica Boulevard. —Mona Holmes, reporter

Ronan is the ideal neighborhood restaurant that Angelenos from all over the city call their own. Yes, there are beautifully blistered Neapolitan-style pizzas from co-owner Daniel Cutler, a Sotto alum who tops his red and white pies with everything from house-made guanciale to squash blossoms. But the care that goes into everything else — from the mismatched antique glasses used to serve top-notch cocktails, or market-fresh sides one could make a meal of — is what makes this a truly special spot. Add to that the fact that Cutler and his wife and business partner, Caitlin, have been outspoken advocates for small businesses throughout the pandemic, and it’s easy to see why a lot of people root for Ronan. —Karen Palmer

There’s a reason why the 18-year-old Providence is sold out almost every night. Chef Michael Cimarusti and partner Donato Poto took the care and time to assemble a crew that executes the best tasting menus in Los Angeles. If the timing is right, Cimarusti might offer a glass from his private whiskey collection, procured during a recent trip to Kentucky. But the emphasis here is on the seafood, a rotating menu with eight courses. The catch is as fresh as it gets, and it’s artfully prepared and presented by an experienced server who explains the process. In all, Providence is the definition of fine dining by a team who cares. —Mona Holmes, reporter

The father of LA’s modern barbecue movement is busy in 2023. In early July, Bludso’s BBQ co-owner Kevin Bludso opened a new Santa Monica location. A month prior, Bludso won a coveted James Beard Award for his book Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul, while appearing as a judge on Netflix’s American Barbecue Showdown. Bludso, along with business partner James Starr, also operates the original location on La Brea, a takeout counter at Proud Bird near LAX, plus another barbecue restaurant in Australia. One could say that Bludso is having a moment. This Compton native’s fame and strong following are years in the making, developed through perfecting Texas-style barbecue with a Los Angeles inflection. Traditional side dishes abound on the menu with cornbread, mac and cheese, baked beans, and potato salad. Every meat is placed in a custom-built smoker for up to 14 hours, adding the perfect amount of flavorful vapor to brisket, chicken, Texas-style hot links, pulled pork, and even smoked jackfruit for vegetarians. Though the takeout business is brisk, it’s best eaten while hot on-site with one of Bludso’s strong cocktails, especially the pitmaster’s punch with Fugu Vodka, pineapple, grapefruit, and ginger. — Mona Holmes, reporter

Pijja Palace is the kind of spot that’s worth the hype. On the ground floor of a motel, it fits the bill of so many things Angelenos love — sports, pasta, pizza, and flavor-forward regional cuisine. Whether it’s called a pizza parlor, Indian restaurant, sports bar, or something else entirely, the owner Avish Naran doesn’t care. Nor should he, when the food so clearly speaks for itself. The green chutney pizza serves as a testament to how well cheddar cheese goes with a cilantro and green chiles paste, and the malai rigatoni flavored with fenugreek will remind you of the importance of a good spice blend.—Virali Dave, editor

It wouldn’t be fair to entirely call Ototo an “in-the-know” spot, given its James Beard Foundation win in 2023 thanks to its robust sake list. Still, this snacks and sipping hangout in Echo Park, just down the hill from the entrance to Dodger Stadium, is relatively far from the busy restaurants of Hollywood and the dedicated Japanese restaurants of the South Bay or Little Tokyo. Engaging staff love to pull out details to make each pour of sake more personal while serving up staples like a katsu sandwich, delightful okonomiyaki, and a Japanese-by-way-of-LA burger.—Farley Elliott, senior editor

My Dung (pronounced “me yoong”), a teeny tiny market-slash-sandwich-shop on Ord Street, doesn’t offer much in the way of ambience, but that matters little with one bite of its fantastic banh mi. Every sandwich is made to order on a baguette that’s airy yet substantial and toasted to a warm, inviting crisp. It’s hard to go wrong with any of the stuffings, from simple pate to shredded chicken to the house special with cold cuts and head cheese. The next time you’re in the neighborhood and hunger pangs hit, head to the back of My Dung’s cramped quarters, fork over $6, and be prepared for one of the greatest sandwiches in town. —Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Yes, the No. 19 pastrami sandwich is an amazing sandwich, but this long-standing deli’s pure pastrami on house-baked rye is simplicity at its best. There’s a reason why people make pilgrimages to try Langer’s pastrami and even corned beef: There is no better version anywhere in town. Try the No. 44, served on griddled rye bread with hand-sliced pastrami, nippy cheese, and sauerkraut, for a decadent take on a Reuben sandwich. But don’t skip the rest of the classic Jewish deli menu either, from potato pancakes to cheese blintzes — it’s all very well executed in one of the best daytime dining rooms in town. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

After winning their historic Best Picture accolade, the director and stars of the South Korean film Parasite celebrated into the wee hours of the night at this family-owned restaurant. Soban’s tight menu features a rarity: ganjang gejang — raw marinated flower crab — which tastes like the pinnacle of Korean cuisine with its rich, slightly fermented umami and buttery sweetness (especially over warm rice). Spicy braised black cod and braised short ribs are soulful companions to help complete the experience. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

There are countless Korean barbecue restaurants in Koreatown but few draw the passion and fervor of this intestines specialist, owned by intrepid restaurateur Jennifer Choi, who also owns the popular Ong Ga Nae and a Rowland Heights outlet of Yangmani. The lines start at Koreatown’s Yangmani right at open, so expect to wait upwards of an hour for a chance to try the plump grilled cow’s intestines and non-marinated primal cuts like galbi. Choi pays special attention to the details, with crisp, lightly dressed salad that helps cut through the oily richness intestine pieces that sizzle in their own fat on the tabletop grill. There’s a reason why nearly all the patrons are young, well-heeled Korean Americans. Yangmani has gained their loyalty with peerless execution and reasonable prices. Try the kimchi fried rice studded with grilled gopchang for extra credit. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Everyone loves a sleeper strip mall find of a sushi restaurant, and Hamasaku might be the best of the bunch in Los Angeles. Though outwardly billed as a generalist Japanese restaurant with bites like tempura rock shrimp and miso black cod that one would find at any modern Japanese restaurant, the sushi omakase at the counter could be the best bang-for-the-buck experience in town thanks to new chef Ei Hiroyoshi, who cooked for years at Sasabune in Beverly Hills. Hiroyoshi leans into the established LA-style sushi, not ashamed to make tasteful and well-balanced rolls, though the veteran chef also prepares elegant, pristine nigiri with cuts of tuna, sea bream, and uni with expertise. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

LA’s Brazilian barbecue scene hasn’t evolved much beyond the always-solid Fogo de Chão, a chain with numerous locations, and the excellent by-the-pound grilled meats at Pampas, but H&H Brazilian is looking to change that, with two handy locations in LA featuring organic salad bar ingredients and prime-grade meats. An expansive Beverly Center restaurant offers seared picanha, lamb leg, short ribs, and garlic culotte sliced fresh at the table while the original Downtown outlet has another all-you-can-eat bonanza that works great for after-work feasts.—Matthew Kang, lead editor

At Camphor, two former Alain Ducasse chefs, Max Boonthanakit and Lijo George, join forces in an Arts District open kitchen to create some of LA’s most exciting food, combining their backgrounds, travel, and inventiveness to spark something entirely new. Yes, the duo is classically trained, but there’s a playfulness to their menu. From bar seats, watch the Camphor crew operate with focus and flash while preparing whimsical takes on pommes Anna, topping the layered crispy potatoes with a chutney-tamarind sauce. Or witness them serve delicately cooked lobster with a coral bisque sauce. It’s too easy to categorize Camphor’s menu as classic French, but it actually offers a thrilling bite into something not seen often, or ever. —Mona Holmes, reporter

Bestia is the hallmark of rustic Italian located in the heart of the Arts District, in what could be one of LA’s loudest dining rooms. Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis cook blistered Neapolitan-style pizzas, inventive fresh pastas, house-cured salumi (a rarity in Los Angeles), and large plates like a whole-grilled branzino with basil, chile, crispy seeds, and lime. Wines and cocktails are on point, and the desserts from Gergis, like the bittersweet chocolate budino tart and buttermilk panna cotta, prove simple but are served with a perfectionist’s attention to detail. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera’s Los Angeles restaurant didn’t land with quite the fanfare of his New York City restaurant Cosme when it opened amid a particularly grim portion of the pandemic in 2020, but soon enough, it found its footing as one of the most intriguing modern Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles. Like Cosme, Damian has a choose-your-own-adventure approach that departs from Olvera’s more celebrated tasting-menu restaurant, Pujol, in CDMX. Ultimately, Damian has made its impact by resonating with Los Angeles flavors, serving everything from duck al pastor and pescado “a la brasa” to hibiscus-infused meringue dessert. Service, from start to meal’s end, is impeccable (your server will predict, not react to, your requests). A restrained dining room and sleek outdoor patio setup further amplify the elegant experience. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

James Beard-nominated chef Keith Corbin’s Alta is not just a soul food restaurant, or a California restaurant, or even a cool-kid kind of weekend hangout — though it obviously has shades of all. The deviled eggs and black-eyed pea fritters tell one kind of story, while the smoked tofu with spicy tartare sauce and vegan California gumbo tell another tale entirely. The wine list and cocktails pack a punch, and there’s always room at the end of the night for the one thing that everyone agrees always works: banana pudding and a few spoons to share.—Farley Elliott, senior editor

Fried chicken is one of America’s true culinary heroes, an infinitely malleable and variable food that beckons opinions from every angle. It’s hard, however, to argue against the excellence of Honey’s Kettle, founded in 2000 by Vincent Williams and basically, at least from the perspective of this writer, perfected. Williams’s batch frying method, something that helps this restaurant go through hundreds of pounds of chicken a day, yields beautifully golden brown crusts so shatteringly crunchy and crisp that the most treasured shell of legs and thighs and breasts will be fought over among the table. The meat is juicy but not overly seasoned, tasting of chicken more than brine or other seasonings. Pair with biscuits and fries, and have a sauce party with tangy hot sauce, honey packets, and ketchup. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Even with its counter dormant during a 2023 remodel, Gilberto Cetina’s jewel box of a mariscos restaurant, Holbox (pronounced ol-bosh), kept crowds gathered just outside the doors of Mercado La Paloma with a truck parked in front. There, diners could order from a tightened menu that included some of the 6-year-old restaurant’s greatest hits: the taco de pulpo en su tinta, “su tinta” referencing the ink-stained sofrito the curled octopus tentacle rests upon; limey, lip-puckering aguachiles and cocteles served with tostadas and Saladitas crackers, respectively; a smoked kanpachi tostada topped with bay scallop and zigzags of a nutty chile de arbol sauce. Its $115 8-course tasting menu, which features a rotating selection of Cetina’s most-loved dishes, returned in May with a few more seats at the counter. Still, better to make a reservation for the two dinnertime seatings, which are held on Thursdays and Fridays at 6 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. only. —Nicole Adlman, cities manager

Though this weekend-only pop-up serves at a backyard in South LA, Alfonso “Poncho” Martínez’s ode to Oaxaca’s incredible grilled tlayudas is on full display every weekend. With expanded hours to Friday and Saturday evenings, 4 p.m. to about 10 p.m., Martínez assembles fine dining-worthy tlayudas, painted with asiento, filled with smooth black beans, and packed with cheese and shredded cabbage. There are traditional proteins like chorizo, tasajo, and cecina, but opt for the moronga blood sausage when it’s available. These dense, meaty sausages — kissed with wood fire — are glorious. — Matthew Kang, lead editor