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Pizza, wings, pasta at Pijja Palace in Silver Lake on a green tiled table.
Dishes from Pijja Palace in Silver Lake, Los Angeles.
Wonho Frank Lee

The 38 Essential Restaurants in Los Angeles

LA’s definitive restaurants across an array of cuisines, neighborhoods, and price points 

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Dishes from Pijja Palace in Silver Lake, Los Angeles.
| Wonho Frank Lee

Every quarter, Eater LA publishes a map of 38 standout restaurants that best represent Los Angeles’s expansive dining scene. In this endless metropolis, there are both new and decades-old street food stands, a cornucopia of cuisines that reflect the city’s diasporic communities, and a bounty of Southern California produce so immense you’ll find it everywhere from fine dining institutions to mom-and-pop operations.

An overarching theme of LA’s food and restaurants is that flavors need to stand out — ideally heat, acid, and umami are present in some form across a menu. At its core, the city’s far-flung neighborhoods, cultures, and flavors coalesce into an array of culinary boundary-bending restaurants that make it undeniably the most compelling place to dine in the country. Here now, the 38 essential restaurants in Los Angeles.

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Tulsi Indian Eatery

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On the surface, Tulsi is a nondescript fast-casual Indian spot, devoid of the large crowds or fanciful flair (and prices) of a more upscale place. But a closer look will reveal a menu with more range and better execution than most places can claim to have. That’s the beauty of Tulsi, where most dishes are under $10 and the menu’s worth a thousand words. The menu — which represents Southern, Northern, and Western India and has arguably the best Gujarati food in the San Fernando Valley, if not all of Los Angeles, has to offer — speaks volumes if you know how to listen. The team works with chefs actually from those areas in India to ensure that the dishes taste like distinct and accurate representations of the areas they originate from. Try the undhiyu, a 10-vegetable medley with sweet potatoes, potatoes, eggplant, yam, coconut, and more. It’s a Gujarati staple that is at once bitter, sweet, salty, and savory, and it’s not easily found in LA.—Virali Dave, editor

An overhead shot of a thali combination steel tray with a variety of Indian foods.
Tulsi Indian Eatery.
Tulsi Indian Eatery

Colette

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Peter Lai, the acclaimed chef at Embassy Kitchen in San Gabriel, took over the stoves at Colette in Pasadena in November 2022 and serves some of the most innovative and intricate Cantonese-influenced cooking in Los Angeles. Though the restaurant’s decor hasn’t changed much since the kitchen switch, the menu is all-new and something worth gathering around the lazy susan for. Many of the restaurant’s signature dishes including the stir-fried lobster sticky rice and crispy-stuffed chicken require advance notice, so call to reserve ahead to avoid any disappointment at the table. Menu standbys like the classic beef chow fun, cola-glazed chicken wings, and all-day dim sum are just as enticing. – Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Chef Peter Lai of Colette in Pasadena.
Peter Lai at Colette.
Cathy Chaplin

Anajak Thai Cuisine

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The feeling of a bustling dinner party persists nightly at Anajak Thai in its intimate, laid-back dining room lined with bottles of natural European wines. The room brims with the aromas of expertly crafted Thai food from Justin Pichetrungsi and his family, which can be ordered a la carte or in a special tasting menu format (which is nearly impossible to book). Still, there’s something for everyone, from classic pad Thai and sticky fried wings to its inventive Thai Taco Tuesdays, which take over the next-door alley and back parking lot for a natural wine bacchanal. —Farley Elliott, senior editor

A floral table-top covered with an assortment of Thai street food dishes, including a white plate with meat skewers, peanut sauce, and cucumbers, a black stone bowl filled with curry and sliced chiles, and a banana leaf topped with rice and chile-laden fish sauce.
Dishes from Anajak Thai Cuisine.
Fiona Chandra

Pie ’n Burger

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It’s hard to argue with the classicists who say that Pie ’n Burger is the most representative Los Angeles burger. This 1963-era standard is still hitting all the right notes, marrying Thousand Island dressing, pickles, tomato, and a touch too much lettuce to create something so inherently LA it cannot be missed. Pasadena is said to be the home of the cheeseburger, and Pie ’n Burger is its timeless crowning achievement, located within walking distance of CalTech and still carrying its local feel and diner vibes. And yes, the pie is great, too. —Farley Elliott, senior editor

A paper-wrapped cheeseburger with a side of fries.
Pie N’ Burger burger with fries.
Farley Elliott

Tam's Noodle House

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A slice of Hong Kong nestled into the San Gabriel Valley, Tam’s does all-day favorites from kaya toast and pineapple buns served with Hong Kong milk tea or coffee in the morning, to stir-fried noodles, wonton soup, and rice rolls for lunch. The Cantonese food continues into the evening with deep-fried pork chops with honey garlic glaze, curried brisket bowls, or peppered wok-fried fish filets.—Matthew Kang, lead editor

A bowl of white gruel topped with green onions at Tam’s Noodle House.
Congee from Tam’s Noodle House.
Cathy Chaplin

Ruen Pair

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Ruen Pair’s bold spicing, fast service, and good value offer wide appeal across the board. A papaya salad with raw crab legs makes for an exciting starter with its pleasant snap and well-balanced lime and fish sauce vinaigrette. The roasted duck red curry with pineapples, tomatoes, and loads of fresh Thai basil teeters deliciously between spicy and creamy. Don’t hesitate to order the ever-popular pad Thai, which is executed with funk and precision. —Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Papaya salad at Ruen Pair in East Hollywood on a plate.
Papaya salad at Ruen Pair in East Hollywood.
Cathy Chaplin

Musso & Frank Grill

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If driving or walking near Hollywood Boulevard and Cherokee Avenue, look for the green sign that signals your arrival to Musso & Frank Grill. Head to the retro car-filled parking lot before descending into the nearly 104-year-old restaurant. While walking in, take a quick glimpse into the loud kitchen and observe the slightly faded chandeliers, wall light sconces, 1930s art, wood paneling, or even the customers who might be casually dressed or donning a tuxedo before settling into a red leather banquette or the bar. There’s something about the pageantry of uniformed waiters and bartenders wearing white or red jackets, but their skill and dedication are why management embroiders the number of years employed on their shirt cuffs. The staff gracefully move throughout the room with intention. They’re always in a hurry with a goal to make diners feel important while dropping off a glass of pinot noir or baked escargot, crab Louie, filet of sandabs, or a perfectly cooked prime rib. One might overhear a newbie diner complaining about the peeling wallpaper or lack of new dishes, but quell the haters by taking in a stirred-only martini. Musso & Frank is old-school Hollywood charm. —Mona Holmes, reporter

Ruben Rueda, bartender at Musso & Frank
Ruben Rueda, a bartender at Musso & Frank.
Musso & Frank

Yang's Kitchen

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Since opening in 2019, Yang’s Kitchen has worn several hats. While the restaurant’s initial Taiwanese comfort food menu was a hit with diners and critics, the labor- and cost-intensive dishes were unsustainable in the long run. The restaurant’s reinvention as a casual daytime spot with Asian-inflected fare was widely embraced, as was the transition to an additional dinner service offering playful riffs on Chinese classics. With every iteration, Yang’s Kitchen has maintained its commitment to impeccable ingredient sourcing and providing living wages for its workers. For those dining at the Alhambra destination for brunch or lunch, the plate-sized pancake made with blue cornmeal and mochiko flour makes for an awesomely chewy short stack. The dish to get on the dinner menu is the chile butter-glazed Hainanese fish rice made with dry-aged barramundi and served with chicken fat rice, ginger-scallion sauce, and pickled cucumbers. –Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

A smattering of dishes from Yang’s Kitchen in Alhambra.
New dinner dishes from Yang’s Kitchen in Alhambra.
Wonho Frank Lee

Marouch Restaurant

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Open since 1982, Marouch is an LA staple. Starting as a small shawarma wrap restaurant, it evolved into one of the city’s most consistent Armenian Lebanese spots, nestled into an East Hollywood strip mall. It’s easy to settle into one of the tables and order lamb, luleh, or chicken kebabs. Every recipe has a family origin, including the hummus and baba ghanoush, which surpass many of their competitors’ versions. The only changes are the new owners, who bought the place a few years back, and the sliding glass window that opens an entire wall to face Santa Monica Boulevard. —Mona Holmes, reporter

An overhead shot of grilled kebabs on rice with red onion.
Kebabs at Marouch
Crystal Coser

Ronan is the ideal neighborhood restaurant that Angelenos from all over the city call their own. Yes, there are beautifully blistered Neapolitan-style pizzas from co-owner Daniel Cutler, a Sotto alum who tops his red and white pies with everything from house-made guanciale to squash blossoms. But the care that goes into everything else — from the mismatched antique glasses used to serve top-notch cocktails, or market-fresh sides one could make a meal of — is what makes this a truly special spot. Add to that the fact that Cutler and his wife and business partner, Caitlin, have been outspoken advocates for small businesses throughout the pandemic, and it’s easy to see why a lot of people root for Ronan. —Karen Palmer

Sweet cheeks pizza with guanciale, ricotta forte, and cacio e pepe honey
Ronan’s Sweet Cheeks pizza.
Wonho Frank Lee

Kuya Lord

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There are pop-ups, and then there is Kuya Lord, the unstoppable Filipino powerhouse that now has a permanent home in LA’s Melrose Hill neighborhood just north of Koreatown. Maynard Llera didn’t create Kuya Lord as a result of the pandemic (he was already cooking his personal Filipino delights like lechon at one-off nights around the city), but the pandemic did move the whole operation into his home garage for a time. There Llera focused on family and flavor, and the results have been nothing short of miraculous. He’s been profiled nationally, written-up and reviewed all over the place, and now has a small and very mighty storefront along Melrose to serve pork belly rice bowls, pancit, supremely delicious grilled prawns, and whatever else he and wife Gigi Llera can think up next. It’s a beautiful thing to behold. —Farley Elliott, senior editor

Lucenachon tray at Kuya Lord in Melrose Hill.
Lucenachon tray at Kuya Lord in Melrose Hill.
Meghan McCarron

Providence

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There’s a reason why the 18-year-old Providence is sold out almost every night. Chef Michael Cimarusti and partner Donato Poto took the care and time to assemble a crew that executes the best tasting menus in Los Angeles. If the timing is right, Cimarusti might offer a glass from his private whiskey collection, procured during a recent trip to Kentucky. But the emphasis here is on the seafood, a rotating menu with eight courses. The catch is as fresh as it gets, and it’s artfully prepared and presented by an experienced server who explains the process. In all, Providence is the definition of fine dining by a team who cares. —Mona Holmes, reporter

The “Ugly Bunch” dish from Los Angeles’s Providence restaurant: a gray-beige bowl filled with an artful array of uni, glistening salmon roe, and edible floral garnishes.
The Ugly Bunch dish from Providence, with uni, salmon roe, and garnishes.
Noe Montes

Bludso's BBQ

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The father of LA’s modern barbecue movement is busy in 2023. In early July, Bludso’s BBQ co-owner Kevin Bludso opened a new Santa Monica location. A month prior, Bludso won a coveted James Beard Award for his book Bludso’s BBQ Cookbook: A Family Affair in Smoke and Soul, while appearing as a judge on Netflix’s American Barbecue Showdown. Bludso, along with business partner James Starr, also operates the original location on La Brea, a takeout counter at Proud Bird near LAX, plus another barbecue restaurant in Australia. One could say that Bludso is having a moment. This Compton native’s fame and strong following are years in the making, developed through perfecting Texas-style barbecue with a Los Angeles inflection. Traditional side dishes abound on the menu with cornbread, mac and cheese, baked beans, and potato salad. Every meat is placed in a custom-built smoker for up to 14 hours, adding the perfect amount of flavorful vapor to brisket, chicken, Texas-style hot links, pulled pork, and even smoked jackfruit for vegetarians. Though the takeout business is brisk, it’s best eaten while hot on-site with one of Bludso’s strong cocktails, especially the pitmaster’s punch with Fugu Vodka, pineapple, grapefruit, and ginger. — Mona Holmes, reporter

An assortment of barbecue staples from Bludso’s BBQ.
Barbecue from Bludso’s.
Bludso’s BBQ

Pijja Palace

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Pijja Palace is the kind of spot that’s worth the hype. On the ground floor of a motel, it fits the bill of so many things Angelenos love — sports, pasta, pizza, and flavor-forward regional cuisine. Whether it’s called a pizza parlor, Indian restaurant, sports bar, or something else entirely, the owner Avish Naran doesn’t care. Nor should he, when the food so clearly speaks for itself. The green chutney pizza serves as a testament to how well cheddar cheese goes with a cilantro and green chiles paste, and the malai rigatoni flavored with fenugreek will remind you of the importance of a good spice blend.—Virali Dave, editor

Malai rigatoni at Pijja Palace in Silver Lake.
Pijja Palace.
Wonho Frank Lee

Antico Nuovo

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Chad Colby’s enduring Italian restaurant, unexpectedly located in a Larchmont-adjacent strip mall, serves what may be the city’s most polished pastas, grilled meats, and rustic Italian fare through an incisive California lens. The menu includes a robust focaccia (“pane”) section with add-ons like burrata and scallion oil, marinated anchovies, whipped ricotta and pistachio pesto, or duck liver pate; antipasti include seasonal salads and crudo. The windowless room manages to charm well-dressed diners eager to find stellar vintages on its wine list, and every table orders its share of house-churned ice creams. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

It wouldn’t be fair to entirely call Ototo an “in-the-know” spot, given its James Beard Foundation win in 2023 thanks to its robust sake list. Still, this snacks and sipping hangout in Echo Park, just down the hill from the entrance to Dodger Stadium, is relatively far from the busy restaurants of Hollywood and the dedicated Japanese restaurants of the South Bay or Little Tokyo. Engaging staff love to pull out details to make each pour of sake more personal while serving up staples like a katsu sandwich, delightful okonomiyaki, and a Japanese-by-way-of-LA burger.—Farley Elliott, senior editor

My Dung Sandwich Shop

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My Dung (pronounced “me yoong”), a teeny tiny market-slash-sandwich-shop on Ord Street, doesn’t offer much in the way of ambience, but that matters little with one bite of its fantastic banh mi. Every sandwich is made to order on a baguette that’s airy yet substantial and toasted to a warm, inviting crisp. It’s hard to go wrong with any of the stuffings, from simple pate to shredded chicken to the house special with cold cuts and head cheese. The next time you’re in the neighborhood and hunger pangs hit, head to the back of My Dung’s cramped quarters, fork over $6, and be prepared for one of the greatest sandwiches in town. —Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Split banh mi held in hand with sliced meats and pickled vegetables.
Banh mi from My Dung.
Matthew Kang

Rosalind’s

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The heart of Little Ethiopia is at Rosalind’s, the first restaurant to set up shop on Fairfax Avenue in 1989. The restaurant’s owner, Fekere Gebre-Mariam, made it his personal mission to develop the stretch into a vibrant hub full of Ethiopian restaurants and shops — and he absolutely succeeded. Follow Gebre-Mariam’s advice and order the iconic doro wat, a soul-satisfying, ruddy stew fortified with ground chiles and spiked with warming spices. The national dish of Ethiopia, this chicken-and-egg staple has been on the menu since day one. —Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

A red table-top with doro wat, plantains, and other Ethiopian small plates at Rosalind’s Restaurant.
An Ethiopian feast at Rosalind’s.
Wonho Frank Lee

Langer’s Delicatessen

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Yes, the No. 19 pastrami sandwich is an amazing sandwich, but this long-standing deli’s pure pastrami on house-baked rye is simplicity at its best. There’s a reason why people make pilgrimages to try Langer’s pastrami and even corned beef: There is no better version anywhere in town. Try the No. 44, served on griddled rye bread with hand-sliced pastrami, nippy cheese, and sauerkraut, for a decadent take on a Reuben sandwich. But don’t skip the rest of the classic Jewish deli menu either, from potato pancakes to cheese blintzes — it’s all very well executed in one of the best daytime dining rooms in town. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Pastrami sandwich on rye bread with pickle on a diner plate.
Langer’s #19 sandwich
Wonho Frank Lee

After winning their historic Best Picture accolade, the director and stars of the South Korean film Parasite celebrated into the wee hours of the night at this family-owned restaurant. Soban’s tight menu features a rarity: ganjang gejang — raw marinated flower crab — which tastes like the pinnacle of Korean cuisine with its rich, slightly fermented umami and buttery sweetness (especially over warm rice). Spicy braised black cod and braised short ribs are soulful companions to help complete the experience. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

A white plate with navy blue trim filled with ganjang gejang (raw crab marinated in soy sauce) and pickled vegetables at Soban in Koreatown.
Ganjang gejang at Soban.
Matthew Kang

Yangmani

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There are countless Korean barbecue restaurants in Koreatown but few draw the passion and fervor of this intestines specialist, owned by intrepid restaurateur Jennifer Choi, who also owns the popular Ong Ga Nae and a Rowland Heights outlet of Yangmani. The lines start at Koreatown’s Yangmani right at open, so expect to wait upwards of an hour for a chance to try the plump grilled cow’s intestines and non-marinated primal cuts like galbi. Choi pays special attention to the details, with crisp, lightly dressed salad that helps cut through the oily richness intestine pieces that sizzle in their own fat on the tabletop grill. There’s a reason why nearly all the patrons are young, well-heeled Korean Americans. Yangmani has gained their loyalty with peerless execution and reasonable prices. Try the kimchi fried rice studded with grilled gopchang for extra credit. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Kimchi fried rice with gopchang from Yangmani in Koreatown.
Kimchi fried rice with gopchang from Yangmani in Koreatown.
Matthew Kang

Fat + Flour

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Nicole Rucker’s colorful tiny stall at Grand Central Market sells what is, unquestionably, LA’s best pie. And while pie alone may not otherwise be enough to elevate such a space to cult status, when combined with Rucker’s infectious attitude, playful presence, and unambiguous skill, there’s just something really special at play. The heavily-awarded Rucker knows how to coax the most possible flavor from crust and from fruits, whipping up seasonal specialties that are, bite for bite, some of the best things to eat anywhere in Los Angeles.—Farley Elliott, senior editor

Hamasaku

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Everyone loves a sleeper strip mall find of a sushi restaurant, and Hamasaku might be the best of the bunch in Los Angeles. Though outwardly billed as a generalist Japanese restaurant with bites like tempura rock shrimp and miso black cod that one would find at any modern Japanese restaurant, the sushi omakase at the counter could be the best bang-for-the-buck experience in town thanks to new chef Ei Hiroyoshi, who cooked for years at Sasabune in Beverly Hills. Hiroyoshi leans into the established LA-style sushi, not ashamed to make tasteful and well-balanced rolls, though the veteran chef also prepares elegant, pristine nigiri with cuts of tuna, sea bream, and uni with expertise. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Hamasaku’s sushi, three pieces ,on a piece of greenery at a restaurant.
Hamasaku.

H&H Brazilian Steakhouse

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LA’s Brazilian barbecue scene hasn’t evolved much beyond the always-solid Fogo de Chão, a chain with numerous locations, and the excellent by-the-pound grilled meats at Pampas, but H&H Brazilian is looking to change that, with two handy locations in LA featuring organic salad bar ingredients and prime-grade meats. An expansive Beverly Center restaurant offers seared picanha, lamb leg, short ribs, and garlic culotte sliced fresh at the table while the original Downtown outlet has another all-you-can-eat bonanza that works great for after-work feasts.—Matthew Kang, lead editor

Picanha from H&H Brazilian Steakhouse.
Carving meat.
Matthew Kang

Camphor

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At Camphor, two former Alain Ducasse chefs, Max Boonthanakit and Lijo George, join forces in an Arts District open kitchen to create some of LA’s most exciting food, combining their backgrounds, travel, and inventiveness to spark something entirely new. Yes, the duo is classically trained, but there’s a playfulness to their menu. From bar seats, watch the Camphor crew operate with focus and flash while preparing whimsical takes on pommes Anna, topping the layered crispy potatoes with a chutney-tamarind sauce. Or witness them serve delicately cooked lobster with a coral bisque sauce. It’s too easy to categorize Camphor’s menu as classic French, but it actually offers a thrilling bite into something not seen often, or ever. —Mona Holmes, reporter

Lobster with coral bisque at Camphor restaurant in Downtown.
Lobster with coral bisque at Camphor in the Arts District.
Wonho Frank Lee

Kato Restaurant

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Chef Jon Yao and his team have carried the torch of Taiwanese cuisine for almost seven years since its origins at a West LA strip mall. In its dining room in Downtown LA’s expansive Row project, Kato has a menu focused on the subtle, elegant flavors served in a handsome but relaxed space. The tasting menu, featuring intricate bites of caviar-studded Dungeness crab with Chinese celery or grilled freshwater eel served over seaweed fried rice, costs about twice what it did in West LA. But the menu boasts a more thoughtful progression of whimsical bites to more substantial explorations of Taiwanese comfort fare, and the service situation is multitudes better than the original Kato. Plus, everything from the wine list to the cocktail menu are world-class, with compelling vintage bottles to inventive milk punches or shaken drinks designed by bartender Austin Hennelly. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Inside Kato’s new dining room in Downtown LA with low lighting, furnishings, and open kitchen.
Kato’s impressive new dining room in Downtown LA.
Wonho Frank Lee

Bestia is the hallmark of rustic Italian located in the heart of the Arts District, in what could be one of LA’s loudest dining rooms. Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis cook blistered Neapolitan-style pizzas, inventive fresh pastas, house-cured salumi (a rarity in Los Angeles), and large plates like a whole-grilled branzino with basil, chile, crispy seeds, and lime. Wines and cocktails are on point, and the desserts from Gergis, like the bittersweet chocolate budino tart and buttermilk panna cotta, prove simple but are served with a perfectionist’s attention to detail. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Cavatelli alla norcina at Bestia.
Cavatelli alla norcina at Bestia.
Bestia

Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera’s Los Angeles restaurant didn’t land with quite the fanfare of his New York City restaurant Cosme when it opened amid a particularly grim portion of the pandemic in 2020, but soon enough, it found its footing as one of the most intriguing modern Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles. Like Cosme, Damian has a choose-your-own-adventure approach that departs from Olvera’s more celebrated tasting-menu restaurant, Pujol, in CDMX. Ultimately, Damian has made its impact by resonating with Los Angeles flavors, serving everything from duck al pastor and pescado “a la brasa” to hibiscus-infused meringue dessert. Service, from start to meal’s end, is impeccable (your server will predict, not react to, your requests). A restrained dining room and sleek outdoor patio setup further amplify the elegant experience. —Matthew Kang, lead editor

Fish tartare, avocado, furikake at Damian in Los Angeles on a plate with a slice of lime.
Fish tartare at Damian.
Araceli Paz

James Beard-nominated chef Keith Corbin’s Alta is not just a soul food restaurant, or a California restaurant, or even a cool-kid kind of weekend hangout — though it obviously has shades of all. The deviled eggs and black-eyed pea fritters tell one kind of story, while the smoked tofu with spicy tartare sauce and vegan California gumbo tell another tale entirely. The wine list and cocktails pack a punch, and there’s always room at the end of the night for the one thing that everyone agrees always works: banana pudding and a few spoons to share.—Farley Elliott, senior editor

It’s been more than a decade since chefs Niki Nakayama and Carole Iida-Nakayama first opened two-Michelin star N/Naka on the corner of Overland and Lawler in the Palms neighborhood of Los Angeles. Since then, the kaiseki restaurant has entranced critics and diners alike with its contemporary interpretation of a centuries-old, multicourse Japanese tradition. The 13-course modern kaiseki is priced at $310 per person. The menu changes with the seasons, along with the chef’s whims, while the flow of the meal adheres to Japanese traditions. Reservations are released a month in advance via Tock, so plan accordingly. —Cathy Chaplin, senior reporter/editor

Small tasting dishes on a black stone tray as part of the kaiseki meal at N/Naka in Los Angeles.
Dishes as part of the kaiseki meal at N/Naka in Los Angeles.
Wonho Frank Lee

Honey's Kettle Fried Chicken

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Fried chicken is one of America’s true culinary heroes, an infinitely malleable and variable food that beckons opinions from every angle. It’s hard, however, to argue against the excellence of Honey’s Kettle, founded in 2000 by Vincent Williams and basically, at least from the perspective of this writer, perfected. Williams’s batch frying method, something that helps this restaurant go through hundreds of pounds of chicken a day, yields beautifully golden brown crusts so shatteringly crunchy and crisp that the most treasured shell of legs and thighs and breasts will be fought over among the table. The meat is juicy but not overly seasoned, tasting of chicken more than brine or other seasonings. Pair with biscuits and fries, and have a sauce party with tangy hot sauce, honey packets, and ketchup. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Fried chicken at Honey’s Kettle.
Fried chicken at Honey’s Kettle.
Matthew Kang

Even with its counter dormant during a 2023 remodel, Gilberto Cetina’s jewel box of a mariscos restaurant, Holbox (pronounced ol-bosh), kept crowds gathered just outside the doors of Mercado La Paloma with a truck parked in front. There, diners could order from a tightened menu that included some of the 6-year-old restaurant’s greatest hits: the taco de pulpo en su tinta, “su tinta” referencing the ink-stained sofrito the curled octopus tentacle rests upon; limey, lip-puckering aguachiles and cocteles served with tostadas and Saladitas crackers, respectively; a smoked kanpachi tostada topped with bay scallop and zigzags of a nutty chile de arbol sauce. Its $115 8-course tasting menu, which features a rotating selection of Cetina’s most-loved dishes, returned in May with a few more seats at the counter. Still, better to make a reservation for the two dinnertime seatings, which are held on Thursdays and Fridays at 6 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. only. —Nicole Adlman, cities manager

Colorful uni-topped ceviche tostada on a white plate with colorful tablecloth at Holbox.
Uni-topped ceviche tostada at Holbox.
Farley Elliott

Poncho's Tlayudas

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Though this weekend-only pop-up serves at a backyard in South LA, Alfonso “Poncho” Martínez’s ode to Oaxaca’s incredible grilled tlayudas is on full display every weekend. With expanded hours to Friday and Saturday evenings, 4 p.m. to about 10 p.m., Martínez assembles fine dining-worthy tlayudas, painted with asiento, filled with smooth black beans, and packed with cheese and shredded cabbage. There are traditional proteins like chorizo, tasajo, and cecina, but opt for the moronga blood sausage when it’s available. These dense, meaty sausages — kissed with wood fire — are glorious. — Matthew Kang, lead editor

Tlayudas with tasajo and moronga from Poncho’s in a paper box.
Tlayuda from Poncho’s.
Matthew Kang

The Rose Venice

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The Rose is chef Jason Neroni’s busy kingdom, an all-day California Italian party palace that also happens to pack a weekend wallop at brunch. The restaurant can do no wrong, from its sunny patio and family-friendly daytime air to its long bar, wood-fired pizzas and produce, and its prime location right on namesake Rose Avenue. For pure California on the plate and across its sprawling patios, this is the spot.—Farley Elliott, senior editor