Evan Funke’s temple to pasta remains one of the most compelling places for upscale Italian food in Los Angeles. The elegant dining room feels like a stylish nonna’s home, while the cuisine ranges among various Italian staples, from the buttery herb-tinted gamberi in bagnetto verde to the blistered pizzas to the crisp ricotta-filled squash blossoms. Of course, the fresh pasta dishes, produced almost exclusively by hand (fatto a mano), are must-orders. —Matthew Kang

The feeling of a bustling dinner party persists nightly at Anajak Thai in its intimate, laid-back dining room lined with bottles of natural European wines. The room brims with the aromas of expertly crafted Thai food from Justin Pichetrungsi and his family, which can be ordered a la carte or in a special tasting menu format (which is nearly impossible to book). Still, there’s something for everyone, from classic pad Thai and sticky fried wings to its inventive Thai Taco Tuesdays, which take over the next-door alley and back parking lot for a natural wine bacchanal. —Farley Elliott

The plates — each one a kind of blending of elegant and old-timey — come fast and furious over dinner at Hatchet Hall, the Culver City institution known for its Southern affectation and boundless energy. Under chef Wes Whitsell the bones of the place remain, from the cornbread to the roasted meats, but there is a lightness to the food, a modern California sensibility that marries well with the usual flavors. A touch of acid, a kick of heat; Hatchet Hall gives a little bit of everything, and on some very nice plates. —Farley Elliott

Redondo Beach’s Sushi Chitose remains one of the most under-the-radar sushi spots in town, serving an incredible omakase for under $80 a person from chef Hirofumi “Gen” Sakamoto. The price-to-quality ratio is so excellent that most sushi aficionados might not see a reason to spend any more, with stellar cuts of toro, hamachi, and mackerel placed atop modest piles of vinegared rice. —Matthew Kang

The heart of Little Ethiopia is at Rosalind’s, the first restaurant to set up shop on Fairfax Avenue in 1989. The restaurant’s owner, Fekere Gebre-Mariam, made it his personal mission to develop the stretch into a vibrant hub full of Ethiopian restaurants and shops — and he absolutely succeeded. Follow Gebre-Mariam’s advice and order the iconic doro wat, a soul-satisfying, ruddy stew fortified with ground chiles and spiked with warming spices. The national dish of Ethiopia, this chicken-and-egg staple has been on the menu since day one. —Cathy Chaplin

Ronan is the ideal neighborhood restaurant that Angelenos from all over the city call their own. Yes, there are beautifully blistered Neapolitan-style pizzas from co-owner Daniel Cutler, a Sotto alum who tops his red and white pies with everything from house-made guanciale to squash blossoms. But the care that goes into everything else — from the mismatched antique glasses used to serve top-notch cocktails, or market-fresh sides one could make a meal of — is what makes this a truly special spot. Add to that the fact that Cutler and his wife and business partner, Caitlin, have been outspoken advocates for small businesses throughout the pandemic, and it’s easy to see why a lot of people root for Ronan. —Karen Palmer

When Walter and Margarita Manzke took over the iconic Campanile space — once owned by Charlie Chaplin, later converted to one of California’s storied restaurants from the 1980s to the mid-aughts and the birthplace of LA’s La Brea Bakery — they knew the stakes were high. Serving elegant French bistro fare imbued with American and Asian influences (as well as a compelling evening tasting menu that changes seasonally), République has stood the test of time. The daytime pastries and breads, from cookies and tarts to fresh baguettes, are among the best in Los Angeles. —Matthew Kang

If driving or walking near Hollywood Boulevard and Cherokee Avenue, look for the green sign that signals your arrival to Musso & Frank Grill. Head to the retro car-filled parking lot before descending into the nearly 104-year-old restaurant. While walking in, take a quick glimpse into the loud kitchen and observe the slightly faded chandeliers, wall light sconces, 1930s art, wood paneling, or even the customers who might be casually dressed or donning a tuxedo before settling into a red leather banquette or the bar. There’s something about the pageantry of uniformed waiters and bartenders wearing white or red jackets, but their skill and dedication are why management embroiders the number of years employed on their shirt cuffs. The staff gracefully move throughout the room with intention. They’re always in a hurry with a goal to make diners feel important while dropping off a glass of pinot noir or baked escargot, crab Louie, filet of sandabs, or a perfectly cooked prime rib. One might overhear a newbie diner complaining about the peeling wallpaper or lack of new dishes, but quell the haters by taking in a stirred-only martini. Musso & Frank is old-school Hollywood charm. —Mona Holmes

Amid a wealth of excellent Oaxacan restaurants in Los Angeles, Gish Bac might be the best of the best thanks to the work of its chef and owner Maria Ramos, a community advocate and tireless promoter of Oaxacan culture in Southern California. At her classic Mid-City restaurant, she and her family serve a bit of everything from Oaxaca, including razor-thin tlayudas spread with fatty asiente, black bean paste, and quesillo cheese, as well as tortas stuffed with cecina, chorizo, or crispy milanesa de pollo. But the star of the show will always be the goat barbacoa roja, slow-cooked for five hours in guajillo chiles and served with lime, blankety corn tortillas, and cabbage for crunch. —Matthew Kang

There’s a reason why the 17-year-old Providence is sold out almost every night. Chef Michael Cimarusti and partner Donato Poto took the care and time to assemble a crew that executes the best tasting menus in Los Angeles. If the timing is right, Cimarusti might offer a glass from his private whiskey collection, procured during a recent trip to Kentucky. But the emphasis here is on the seafood, a rotating menu with eight courses. The catch is as fresh as it gets, and it’s artfully prepared and presented by an experienced server who explains the process. In all, Providence is the definition of fine dining by a team who cares. —Mona Holmes

After winning their historic Best Picture accolade, the director and stars of the South Korean film Parasite celebrated into the wee hours of the night at this family-owned restaurant. Soban’s tight menu features a rarity: ganjang gejang — raw marinated flower crab — which tastes like the pinnacle of Korean cuisine with its rich, slightly fermented umami and buttery sweetness (especially over warm rice). Spicy braised black cod and braised short ribs are soulful companions to help complete the experience. —Matthew Kang

There are pop-ups, and then there is Kuya Lord, the unstoppable Filipino powerhouse that now has a permanent home in LA’s Melrose Hill neighborhood just north of Koreatown. Maynard Llera didn’t create Kuya Lord as a result of the pandemic (he was already cooking his personal Filipino delights like lechon at one-off nights around the city), but the pandemic did move the whole operation into his home garage for a time. There Llera focused on family and flavor, and the results have been nothing short of miraculous. He’s been profiled nationally, written-up and reviewed all over the place, and now has a small and very mighty storefront along Melrose to serve pork belly rice bowls, pancit, supremely delicious grilled prawns, and whatever else he and wife Gigi Llera can think up next. It’s a beautiful thing to behold. —Farley Elliott

Here’s Looking at You, or HLAY, as it’s affectionately known, is a true Los Angeles restaurant in that it defies categorization. When Lien Ta and Jonathan Whitener reopened the corner Koreatown restaurant in 2021 after a long pandemic closure, it felt like something very special — and very unique to LA — had finally returned, ushering a new energy into both the restaurant and its fans. The menu of thoughtfully composed, difficult-to-pin-down small plates spans cuisines and flavors — crispy frog legs are paired with salsa negra, for instance, while a signature uni panna cotta leans more Japanese with tobiko and hijiki. There’s also an ever-changing thematic cocktail menu that doesn’t take itself too seriously but always delivers, much like HLAY itself. —Karen Palmer

Open since 1982, Marouch is an LA staple. Starting as a small shawarma wrap restaurant, it evolved into one of the city’s most consistent Armenian Lebanese spots, nestled into an East Hollywood strip mall. It’s easy to settle into one of the tables and order lamb, luleh, or chicken kebabs. Every recipe has a family origin, including the hummus and baba ghanoush, which surpass many of their competitors’ versions. The only changes are the new owners, who bought the place a few years back, and the sliding glass window that opens an entire wall to face Santa Monica Boulevard. —Mona Holmes

This prototypical premium Korean barbecue restaurant tucked into a strip mall hits all the right notes: heaping platters of tender, richly marbled beef, well-executed banchan, and attentive service. While the restaurant’s interior isn’t modern or sharply designed, by any means, that might be exactly what longtime KBBQ fans don’t want from Soowon, with its worn-in seating and smoky environs. Soowon Galbi may not get the love of its peers like Park’s, Chosun, or even Kang Ho Dong Baekjeong, but its reliability and consistency are proof that not everything needs to be shiny to be good. —Matthew Kang

Holbox is a perfect encapsulation of a kind of LA that rarely gets the larger spotlight outside of this city. Here, chef Gilberto Cetina takes care to present unexpected fish varieties in myriad ways, from tacos, of course, to ceviches, cocteles, tostadas, and aguachiles. The provenance of the smoked kanpachi is clear when eating but isn’t hammered over the customer’s head while sitting at the bar inside the airy mercado. No, Cetina isn’t that kind of person. He lets the mariscos do the talking. —Farley Elliott

In the early 2000s, Downtown Los Angeles was widely known as the part of town where commuters left at 5 p.m. sharp. Shift to 2023 and DTLA is still in the midst of significant transformation. Some areas are now competitive dining destinations packed with pedestrians, busy streets, and monied restaurant groups attempting to stake a claim. But there are also chefs like Brazilian-born Natalia Pereira, who opened Woodspoon in 2007. She settled into her 850-square-foot space on Ninth and Main Streets and continues to prepare one of the city’s most soulful menus. Woodspoon’s bright interior and subtle touches are why Pereira endures, from the bright red front door to the hanging lamps and embroidered tablecloths. Her water pitchers always have cinnamon sticks or fruit, a practice that hails from Pereira’s childhood. Woodspoon’s hearty moqueca — a traditional Brazilian stew — is full of aromatics, coconut milk, and seafood. Pereira also prepares croquetas and one of Brazil’s most popular street foods, the teardrop-shaped dumpling coxinha. Order the white or red sangria, and all will be right in the world. —Mona Holmes

Chef Jon Yao and his team have carried the torch of Taiwanese cuisine for almost seven years since its origins at a West LA strip mall. In its now year-old dining room in Downtown LA’s expansive Row project, the new Kato has a menu focused on the subtle, polished flavors served in a handsome but relaxed space. The tasting menu, featuring intricate bites of caviar-studded Dungeness crab with Chinese celery or grilled freshwater eel served over seaweed fried rice, costs about twice what it did in West LA. But the menu boasts a more thoughtful progression of whimsical bites to more substantial explorations of Taiwanese comfort fare, and the service situation is multitudes better than the original Kato. Plus, everything from the wine list to the cocktail menu are close to world-class, with compelling vintage bottles to inventive milk punches and shaken drinks designed by bartender Austin Hennelly. —Matthew Kang

My Dung (pronounced “me yoong”), a teeny tiny market-slash-sandwich-shop on Ord Street, doesn’t offer much in the way of ambience, but that matters little with one bite of its fantastic banh mi. Every sandwich is made to order on a baguette that’s airy yet substantial and toasted to a warm, inviting crisp. It’s hard to go wrong with any of the stuffings, from simple pate to shredded chicken to the house special with cold cuts and head cheese. The next time you’re in the neighborhood and hunger pangs hit, head to the back of My Dung’s cramped quarters, fork over $6, and be prepared for one of the greatest sandwiches in town. —Cathy Chaplin

Rashida Holmes’s tribute to Caribbean food, inspired by her mother Joy Clarke-Holmes, has wowed Los Angeles diners with incredible red pepper goat and chicken curry rotis, wonderfully crisp cod cakes, hearty oxtail-stuffed patties, and saucy, puffy doubles. Bridgetown pops up on weekends without a takeout window in the Arts District, and on Sundays at Smorgasburg. —Matthew Kang (Note: Eater LA reporter Mona Holmes is related to Rashida Holmes and was not involved in the writing of this entry.)

Bestia is the hallmark of rustic Italian located in the heart of the Arts District, in what could be one of LA’s loudest dining rooms. Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis cook blistered Neapolitan-style pizzas, inventive fresh pastas, house-cured salumi (a rarity in Los Angeles), and large plates like a whole-grilled branzino with basil, chile, crispy seeds, and lime. Wines and cocktails are on point, and the desserts from Gergis, like the bittersweet chocolate budino tart and buttermilk panna cotta, prove simple but are served with a perfectionist’s attention to detail. —Matthew Kang

Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera’s Los Angeles restaurant didn’t land with quite the fanfare of his New York City restaurant Cosme when it opened amid a particularly grim portion of the pandemic in 2020, but soon enough, it found its footing as one of the most intriguing modern Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles. Like Cosme, Damian has a choose-your-own-adventure approach that departs from Olvera’s more celebrated tasting-menu restaurant, Pujol, in CDMX. Ultimately, Damian has made its impact by resonating with Los Angeles flavors, serving everything from duck al pastor and pescado “a la brasa” to hibiscus-infused meringue dessert. Service, from start to meal’s end, is impeccable (your server will predict, not react to, your requests). A restrained dining room and sleek outdoor patio setup further amplify the elegant experience. —Matthew Kang

As one of Los Angeles’ most popular food trucks, Tacos y Birria La Unica operates in two neighborhoods. The family-run business opens at 8:30 a.m. in Boyle Heights, while the Mid-City truck — complete with a temporary seating area — on Venice near Fairfax serves until 6 p.m. The Mendozas stand out in LA’s competitive taco field by using handmade tortillas, as well as birria options that include beef or goat. In addition to the shredded meats, there’s steak, cabeza, lengua, and even chicken. Enveloped in a slightly crispy shell, the quesabirria taco is always a must. —Mona Holmes

As Mexican bakeries go, Delicias Bakery and Some is an LA gem. Operating since 1990, Delicias produces beautiful pan dulce, egg breads, empanadas, puerquitos, conchas, and the doughnut-like novias. There’s also an entire section dedicated to plant-based pan dulce. Everything at this family-run business is made on-site, where enjoying sandwiches, salads, coffee, and a customized fresh juice is entirely possible in a low-key setting in Highland Park. —Mona Holmes

Long Beach has the largest concentration of Cambodians of any city outside of Cambodia, so it’s no surprise that a crop of restaurants have made their mark on this part of the Southland. In 1985, Phnom Penh Noodle Shack opened as a compact daytime restaurant making savory, soupy, saucy food, especially the No. 1 house special: the Phnom Penh noodles. It’s full of shrimp, along with pork that’s been sliced, ground, and with stomach and liver. There are five noodle styles to choose from, from rice to egg noodles with variations on the size. Ask the staff for guidance and you can’t go wrong. —Mona Holmes